Preveza to Rome via the Gulf of Corinth - 2007

Date

Log

Miles

Nights

€ Night

Total €

Port

Anchor or Buoy

April 20 - 21

We started with a Greek Tragi-Comedy. In mid February we booked flights by Olympic Airlines from Athens to Preveza and an Easyjet flight from Gatwick to Athens. Obviously the latter was cheaper than OA from Heathrow to Athens, but the important factor was that the timing was somewhat safer although we would have 5 hours to kill at Athens airport. After a leisurely lunch at Athens and a check of my email, we wandered over to the OA check in desks. Whilst in the queue we realised that our flight to Preveza was not on the board but by then we were close to the check in desk with a rapidly growing queue behind us. At the check in the lady said that our flight was cancelled. However, they would put us up overnight at their expense and we could fly out in the morning. As an alternative we could fly to somewhere called Chania (?) although she could not say where this was or how near to Preveza. We chose the first option and were directed to the enquiry desk. "Oh No! The flight was cancelled in March and we tried very hard to contact you. Because we tried very hard to contact you we have no liability. Look, our log shows all the attempts to call you. All we got was a fax tone. Also we wrote to you.

We will fly you to Ioninia, about 1 hour drive from Preveza (although they could not show us a map with the place on it). You will have to pay for a night in Athens, the taxi to the hotel (our coach will bring you back in the morning) and the transport from Ioninia to Preveza There are no flights to Preveza tomorrow" ( although there had been one on the schedules back in February). We were in the US for three weeks in March but had left the telephone on the fax setting. Olympic Airlines; idea of trying very hard to contact us seemed not to include using a modicum of common sense. Why not send a Fax if they got a fax tone on the telephone?. Why not send an email? We had booked online directly with Olympic Airlines and had had emails from them confirming the booking. A letter never arrived even though we had received a notification by post saying that the tickets were coming by courier. So much for Olympic Airlines trying hard. The Trojans learnt to beware Greeks bearing gifts. In the modern world, beware Greek airlines offering flights. We found the whole affair completely disgusting and it certainly coloured our views on Greece in a very negative way.

The Taxi drive from Ionina to Preveza was interesyting, to say the least. Every double bend was regarded as a challenge and if he sign included a vehicle going over a cliff it was a double challenge and the driver went even faster. A white knuckle job for me in the front passener's seat and not one to be recommended.

April 21 to May 3

Many jobs on the boat had to be done. The yard, Preveza Marine, was very helpful with a small but very sensible stocked chandlers. The next door yard, Cleopatra also had a chandlers with a slightly more comprehensive stock. The two yards jointly ran a mini bus service across to Preveza town for shopping and evening meals.

Close by there is a very reasonably priced restaurant, know very unfairly, as the greasy spoon. In fact, we had better and lower priced meals here than in many other places. Genuine Greek food at genuine Greek prices.

Preveza Marine has free Internet access, Cleopatra has a charged for service.

Noteworthy was the helpfulness of all at Preveza Marine and, from hearsay and contact with the chandlers, at Cleopatra and Aktio yards also.

We were to be even more grateful to Preveza Marine later.

May 2 to 6

Launched on a low loader, very efficiently and with minimum fuss. Total cost was very reasonable - some €1300 for 8 months ashore including lifts in and out. (that as with a Cruising Association discount)

Forecast of strong SE winds suggested that the quay at Preveza would not be too comfortable so we moved round to Amvrakikos Kolpos to a very quiet anchorage just east of the island N Koukouvvonitsa. As the strong winds seemed likely to continue, we returned to Preveza for shopping and Internet Cafe before retreating to the same anchorage.

Stayed a third night as, with strong winds expected,. Overnight the wind reached F8 but the new Spade anchor was rock solid. Bringing up the anchor brought a mass of sandy mud to the surface. Perhaps shovel is a better name than spade!

Went ashore to see Vonitsa. Not a very prepossessing town although the beach was commendably clean and well kept. The small yacht harbour seemed to have sufficient depth for moderate sized yachts, most of which were moored bows to.

Whilst in and around Preveza we met several CA boats. I will not list them less I omit anyone and cause offence. Suffice it to say that everyone was as friendly and helpful as ever.

May 7

After a good meal in a very good local Taverna with no loud music or hordes of people (Yanni's in Dardanelli near the church at the end of the main shopping street) it was time to leave Preveza, a town that certainly grows on you. The short passage to Levkas in very little wind was hardly stretching. Entry to the canal through the bridge was not the drama that it can be. The entrance from the north is now well buoyed.

A call to Levkas marina was answered promptly and we were ushered into a berth with minimum fuss.

Most services are conveniently placed here with good local shops for produce and meat and a Co-op supermarket for the heavy items.

8

3

38

114

May 10

A short beat down the coast of Levkas against the east coast sea breeze to an anchorage in Tranquil Bay opposite the town of Nidri. Good shopping for food here plus some very cheap drinkable gin.

8

1

May 11

A stiff beat to the south of Levkas, then the wind slowly veered as we came under the influence of the west coast sea breeze. We eventually sailed on a broad reach into Fiskardho on the N of Cephalonia. A delightful if rather touristy little village.

In what we are coming to realise is typical Greece, there were water taps and electricity on the pontoon but neither worked. The posts were all lying on their sides. Shopping was OK.

24

1

0

0

May 12

A short gentle sail down the coast to Ay Eufimia where we are to meet with our daughter at the end of June. We tried going in forward to the quay under stern anchor but the normally reliable Fortress did not hold in the very strong cross wind. Several others also dragged so we finished up alongside. The following morning we re-anchored stern to with the Spade anchor which held well although with much less wind.

Ay Eufimia is well organised with water and electricity on the quay. There is a reasonable small supermarket, a good butchers etc.

11

2

20

40

May 14

A no wind motor to Poros where the harbour is small and dirty. A very large ferry seemed to take up a great deal of space. Approaching the quay depths were down to two metres a boat length away. We chickened out as we draw 2 m. Went round the headland to a daytime anchorage. as the weather was settled we stayed overnight. it was a little rolly, but not too much so. Good holding on sand. Good swimming here.

12

1

May 15

Part sail, mainly motor to Vathi on Ithaca of Odysseus fame. The quay had water taps and electric sockets but neither worked. The saving grace was Dimitrios' Taverna. If you eat there, then there are good free hot water showers. The Taverna is very good.

Shopping in the town was good and not too far to walk. A pleasant place all round and well worth visiting.

19

2

0

0

May 17

Some sailing, some motoring to a bay on the mainland - Port Marathia. The Pilot says "well sheltered" from the prevailing winds. Noting the orientation of the bay and the dip in the surrounding hills in that direction, the statement is suspect. Sheltered form the sea - yes. But the wind was very strong and gusty. The spade, again was rock solid even with some very strong thunderstorm gusts.

19

1

0

May 18

Another part sail part motor to Kalamos. This is another place where the Pilot show water taps on the quays nut none function. The harbourmaster is very helpful and friendly - but he does own the Taverna at the head of the harbour! The village is very small with a number of very well kept houses. It was difficult to guess how many were holiday homes and how many were residential homes. A delightfully quiet place.

Shopping is very limited although there is a bakery (owned by a relation of the harbourmaster). The meal at the Taverna was moderate/mediocre.

8

2

0

0

May 20

A short but fairly brisk sail to a lunch time anchorage, Kato Elia, on the east side of N Meganisi. This is a very pleasant small bay that would have been OK overnight. After lunch we had a sail which became quite exciting partly with winds from showers and partly, gusts around islands. We finished up in Ormos Vlikho, just south of Tranquil Bay. Excellent holding.

22

1

May 21

Motor back to Levkas for a small HROA meet. We had to get the outboard fixed and replace a winch handle, plus laundry etc. All done well.

Met HRs. Rain stopped just in time for drinks on the pontoon. Had very good meal in local Taverna in the town. Found very comprehensive chandlers in the main street - all shapes and sizes of hooks, shackles etc etc. Also very good patisserie.

10

4

May 25

Short sail to anchorage Ormos Varikho on the mainland for beach barbecue with HRs.

8

1

May 26

Another short sail to Spartakhori on Meganisi for final meal with HRs.

A very good set of quays and pontoons at no charge run by the Taverna owner who is very helpful in helping boats in and, if necessary, to leave. Water available. Showers, bread and limited provisioning. Good shops in the village UP the hill.

Had to stay here for another two nights because of strong S winds.

We walked round, the long way on the flat, to Vathi where there is a new pontoon that seemed to have water but no electricity. It was largely occupied by charter fleets.

We walked back the short way, over the top from which we could see N and S sides of the island.

7

3

0

0

May 29

A very good sail in a brisk NW wind down the coast to an anchorage off the S of Nisos Petalas. The anchorage, just behind the light house at Ak Aspro had one other yacht when we arrived, followed by two more but lots of space.. Very peaceful. Not a house in sight. Several fish farms in the area, one right on track close SW of N Apaso.

25

1

May 30

A good sail to Patras just near the entrance to the Gulf of Corinth. The visitor's berths are very exposed to the sea breeze so we had a rolly evening and early night. There are tailed lines here, and need to be because there is little room and a strong cross wind must be fairly common with the sea breeze. Toilets and showers that could have been very good with a little tlc. The gents showers worked well, the ladies were cold because one was continuously on and the tank never warmed up.

They charge two nights for the price of one. There is water and electricity on the visitor's pontoon. A fuel bowser was positioned at the head of the pontoon which also served as a fuelling pontoon.

Good shopping nearby. Direct inland about three street back gets to a busy road with all necessary shops and an AB supermarket.

It is a port where the Police want to see papers and other documents.

36

2

28

28

June 1

To Trizonia where, sadly, the CA HLR had recently died. We stayed anchored just off the harbour which seemed fairly full, apparently with long stay boats.

18

1

June 2 and 3

Part sail then motor to Itea.

Itea is a real Greek tragedy, rather as we are coming to expect, but even more so. As elsewhere, a lot of EU money has been put in but then allowed to go to waste as the facilities rot away. Electricity points do not work. Water points likewise. The toilet blocks are not in use. A motor boat had a hose to one of the hand basins and we were able to look inside. All was very modern, nice floors but never used. Only abused. The three toilet suites had used toilet paper all over the floors. All filthy, disgusting and absolutely criminal. A local explained it as being due to corrupt politicians!

A man brings fuel round morning and evening. He has the key to the one tap which is at the toilet blocks and difficult to get close enough to although he does have a long hose pipe. The water is free – so why keep it locked? Why not supply water at the many points?

Food shopping in the town looked as though it would be good

The good point, of course is Delphi. Reasonably frequent bus service from opposite the marina. Cost is €1.60 each way for a bus ride that rivals Michael Caine's in the Italian Job. On a Sunday access to the site was free. Weekday €6 (€3 concessionary – EU OAPs??)

23

2

0

June 4

In virtually no wind we motored to Corinth. On the way we saw more dolphins than ever before. At least 50, we think although one estimate was 200.

The yacht harbour is not large and much space is taken by local boats. Initially we rafted outside another British boat a Naiad 373. But, there was water on tap. In the morning as one boat moved out we moved to the wall right by a tap. The Port Police were happy to see us but were not looking for business.

39

3

4.5

14

June 5 and 6

Visited Ancient Corinth. Interesting if not so spectacular as Delphi. Very windy on the 6th so stayed put

Good shopping for food in Corinth and very good fish shops, better than we have seen for some while. Perhaps they get the fish from the Aegean.

June 6

Wind had lessened but on the nose and sea rather rough. Motor sailed to Kiato. Had we waited, the wind would have dropped. At Kiato, the fishing harbour has been enlargened and there was plenty of room for yachts but no tailed lines or, as far as we could see, other facilities. But, it does mean that Kiato can be now used with any wind direction.

We moored in the commercial harbour with one Coastguard vessel and three other yachts. Reasonably quiet, quite good shopping. A new cathedral. overlooks the harbour and, apparently, is a bone of contention with locals due to its cost and the fact that it is little used.

11

1

0

June 7

Had intended to go to Galaxidhi but the harbour is being reconstructed due to subsidence. Anchored in the bay just N of the harbour and went ashore to find a place to eat. The wind suddenly increased blowing into the bay. Decided to up anchor and shelter in Itea. Also to do some food shopping. I used a good internet cafe with wireless connection.

Met USA Vancouver with Arthur and ?? Roberts, also HR 352 First Light from Dartmouth and saw another HR also from Dartmouth.

Last time here we were not asked to pay. This time, the port police were active and we had to pay an exorbitant €24 for two nights and no services. Patras, with good facilities, was €28 for two nights and Corinth with water was€9 for two nights. Another yacht did complain and rightly so..

33

2

12

24

June 10

With virtually no wind motored to Trizonia and, this time went alongside one of the quays. Met CA friends Chris and Janet Wragg.

This place is another impending Greek tragedy. Apparently, the harbour was constructed in 1996. It is falling apart. There are a number of long stay boats there, some look as though they will sink there in time. others were well cared for. There was, as far as we could see, no harbour authority, nobody to take care of the place.

There are Tavernas and a mini market. We had two meals which were mediocre, even by Greek standards. There is one water tap that we never saw, but the key has to be obtained from the mini market. The quay that we were on had numerous very large holes in it, intended for services but never completed. There were street lights on the quay, but one had been used as a mooring post by a fishing boat and was lying on its side. We were warned (after two days) that the wires were still live.

Yet the island itself is delightful. Showers and a washing machine at the hotel, not cheap but good. Good walks, nice and quiet. Without some care and attention it will just cease to be.

23

June 12

A nice beat in a F 4 that increased to a F5 but then decreased again. We had to motor through the bridge at Rion and the wind headed so we motored the remaining 4 miles to Patras. We refuelled on arrival as the fuel bowser was still there, seems to be a permanent fixture.

This time there was no water in the gents showers, the ladies' were fine but no water in the sinks. You cannot have everything.

Again, two nights for the price of one.

29

2

28

28

June 14

After motoring out of the Gulf of Patras, we had a good fine reach to Killini.

Killini is a welcome and all too rare Greek success story. They have used EU money wisely and their own as well on a major project, surprisingly not mentioned in the latest edition of the Pilot, although it (reportedly) had taken around 5 or so years to complete.

The quay where yachts are shown in the pilot has been widened and now is for larger vessels only. A second, wide, inner quay has been built parallel to and as long as the first. Depths inside this quay are ample and there are many bollards, So far, there are not too many local boats and, in any case, there seems to be ample room for them

Although this is primarily a passage port, it would be no hardship to be stuck here for a few days. Pleasantly quiet, despite the ferry port; low key is the best description. There is water and electricity on the quay. Both work!

Nearby is a bakery, several minimarkets, fruit and vegetables. We did not see a butchers but one is probably near Several pleasant looking Tavernas. There is a sandy bathing beach just beyond the harbour with showers and changing cubicles. ATM by the Port offices..

38

1

13

12

June 15

To Port Zakinthos. A slow sail initially, then a shy spinnaker reach with a slowly increasing wind until we were doing 6 knots under spinnaker with the wind just forward of the beam. It was pretty windy on arrival but backing under anchor into a tight slot went OK. Until next morning when we realised that the charter yacht by us had laid his anchor at least two boat widths up to wind. We were over his anchor and had to move to let him out.

On arrival we were met by a man who operated like an Italian Ormeggiatoro. He directed us into a slot, took our papers, did the formalities, tried to sell us various services. He charged for berthing plus extras for electricity and water. Both fuel and water came by tanker.

Zakinthos is a very pleasant if touristy town. Many Tavernas/restaurants serving what seemed like reasonably good meals, rather pseudo Greek. I spoke too soon; Margaret had a very upset stomach that night and the following day.

Typically Greek is the municipal tourist board “beach”, a run down and decaying area to the N of the harbour. Neither a beach nor inviting.

The “yacht marina” mentioned in the Pilot is probably in Never-Never Land. There are several tripper boats parked there and a few local boats. It really is a bit out on a limb. A non-starter.

June 18

A short motor to Ay Nikolaos where the blue caves are worth seeing. It is a fairly laid back little place with several Tavernas and two small beaches for bathing. Anchoring space is very limited but the water is deeper near the quays than the Pilot indicates.

The Taverna just by the fuel station and right by the quays is run by Dmitri and his sister, Katrina who are extremely friendly, helpful, speak excellent English and run a good restaurant (Porto) at very competitive prices. We ate here far better than in Port Zakinthos and several other places.. Water is available by a long hose from the fuel station and there are free showers and internet access for their customers. In prime position as nearest Taverna to the quay for yachts, Dmitri seems to act as unofficial berthing master.

With all the concrete in the yet to be completed harbour it can get very hot. Otherwise, we liked Ay. Nikolaos for its rather low key style and, particularly, the fact that two young Greeks were taking such pains to encourage visitors and working very hard to make a go of their business. Although the other restaurants may have been just as good, we preferred to support them and would encourage others to do likewise..

14

2

0

June 20

Some sailing, including a slow spinnaker run up the east of Cephalonia to Avios Andreas on the South of Ithaca. there is room for 6 or so with lines ashore to rather sharp rocks. An attraction here was a herd of goats that scrambled over the rocks with impressive sure footedness. The big minus is the wasps which make the place almost untenable. Not a place to bring our family next week

27

1

June 21

A short motor sail to an anchorage, Ormos Dexia near to Vathi on Ithaca. Good holding in not too deep water, rather noisy from traffic.

11

1

June 22

To the quay by Dimitrios' Taverna to have a good meal and to stock up in Vathi.

1

1

0

June 23

To a very pleasant anchorage at Ormos Pera Pigadhi on the SE of Ithaca. Partly as a reconnaissance for places to bring our family next week.

8

1

June 24 to July 1

To Ay Eufimia for a week of being grand parents Our daughter and very young family arrived late that night. We did day sailing to bays up the East of Cephalonia - Kalo Limeni and two small bays just by Ay Eufimia, one to a pebble beach near Sami and one to O Pera Pigadhi on Ithaca. On the sail to Sami, we saw dolphins playing around the boat much to the delight of Ben, the 21/2 year old.

Ben discovered cherries, he quickly learned how to negotiate the gang plank and the steps on the stern up from the dinghy. Swimming in the sea was new for him after pools in England. He watched grandpa eat meat off a skewer and did likewise. Great fun for all. It was very hot but Jessica (9 months) was fine as long as we had cold flannels for when she had been asleep down below,

We had chosen Ay Eufimia after discussion with CA members and it was excellent for the purpose. Good food shopping. Family had villa very close but quiet with shared swimming pool, not expensive.

Everyone was very friendly. The cost shown is nominal. They gave us a nice discount.

10

8

140

July 2

A pleasant sail, beating between Ithaca and Cephalonia, then a reach that became a spinnaker run (Levkas East coast sea breeze again) to the NW of Meganisi and a short motor to a Ormos Kapali on the NE of Meganisi. Anchored with line to a tree.

27

1

July 3

Back to Levkas, in a brisk NE wind then motor up the canal. Some care and maintenance work here. Also laundry shopping etc.

19

July 7

To Preveza to meet up with a new windscreen ordered (and delivered at great expense) from Hallberg Rassy. Fitted reasonably easily, at least by boat standards. Preveza Marine were, again, extremely helpful. It is difficult to fault them on anything. All very friendly and all as helpful as it is possible to be. For example, we had to have the very large crate delivered from Sweden at some date unspecified. OK, they said, send it here and come when you like. It will be OK here. No charge for this nor disposing of box and old screen later. We just hope that someone got some use from these.

7

10

July 8

The big problem was that Jennifer went down with a very bad stomach pain later diagnosed as Para-typhoid. This necessitated 5 days in the hospital at Preveza where she had very good treatment. General hygiene in the hospital and the food left a little to be desired (as in UK hospitals where MRSE is a national disgrace) but we could not fault the diagnosis and treatment. Both excellent.

Margaret and I took Anhinga over to Preveza town quay so that we could be very near the hospital and visit frequently.

When she was discharged the hospital gave good and clear advice about diet and a post treatment check in 10 days at any Greek hospital. She is now on a low fat and low fibre diet. Not easy.

July 17

Left Preveza for an anchorage at Ay Kinaki but this had a swimming area buoyed off and water skiers. Not very friendly. Went to Ay Ioaonnou, much quieter. No mussel beds as advertised in the pilot. The only drawback was that some filthy scum that had been across the entrance made its way into the bay. Luckily, we had already had a swim.

27

1

July 18

To O Lakka on Paxos. A very popular and crowded anchorage. Some of the clearest water. Good swimming and reasonable shopping in the village.

12

1

July 19

To an anchorage off Moutou - the north bay. Another good anchorage. Went into the harbour by dinghy. Work is in progress that seems likely to provide good facilities here.

13

1

July 20

To Gouvia under engine. Wind light and variable.

Oil and primary filter change. Check bilge pump which seemed not to be working. OK now. Jennifer had her check up at the General Hospital, had to go back for results of tests. Is OK now but digestion still a little difficult. Getting used to normal food again is going to be slow and difficult.

26

5

38

190

July 25 and 26

Comedy or errors. Paid bill at Gouvia, left for Ay Stefanos up the coast intending to leave the following morning for Erikoussa. About to leave but suddenly realised that we had left the boat papers at Gouvia. Thanking our lucky stars that we were not further away, we motored back to Gouvia, collected papers, did a little shopping and back to Ay Stefanos.

The holding is good here - once you have got through the weed. That can be difficult and the Spade dragged twice. Once in it was OK and came up with a mass of mud thick with decaying vegetation. A very pleasant anchorage.

27

2

July 27

Finally got away to Erikoussa. Had to motor all the way. Very good anchorage. Hoping for better wind direction tomorrow for the passage to St Maria di Leuca on the heel of Italy..

22

1

July 28

Had a very good and fast sail to Ste Maria di Leuca. One reef in most of the time and doing up to 7.5 knots and much of it over 7 with a NW 4 to 5. Back in Italy, we dined at a good restaurant for pasta. Had some difficulty in remembering our Italian.

Prices here are high in the marina, but they are in a prime position. Anyone wanting a harbour around the heel of Italy, really has little option. This is a pity because it deters boats from stopping over to enjoy the place - which we liked.

49

23

46

138

July 29-30

Explored the shopping area in the village which is really rather pleasant, much nicer than is the impression from the marina. Winds very light so stayed put

July 31

A good forecast for the crossing of he Gulf of Taranto, NW 5 for much of the time gave a good fast sail.. Decided to head for Ciro where we had stayed overnight two years ago. A good sail but a bad decision. The quay where fishing boats moor now has all previously spare space taken up by day fishing boats. No room at all. Had to go on to Crotone, where we could easily have gone in the fist place. Crotone was full but there is good anchorage sheltered from all but S winds. Good, that is except fro the swell.

78

1

Aug 1

Very windy, the anchorage was becoming very unpleasant with the swell. Decided to run under reduced headsail only to Le Castella. This was fine after we had passed Cabo Colonne after which the sea flattened out to give a smooth fast sail.

Got into Le Castella where they are very friendly and try to be helpful. The marina is now run by the Lega Navale. We had liked Le Castella in 2005 and did this time also. There is not much space inside but they will raft you out somewhere if at all possible. Shopping is pretty good in the town which is really a small holiday resort. We needed a longer electricity cable and found a local hardware shop (the chandlers had none, and told us unhelpfully to go to Crotone). Having found plug, socket and wire, no mean feat as their English was non existent, the lady asked did we want it made up. Yes. So, while serving other customers she made up the cable for us. Plug, socket and 10 metres cable - total €18. A tour de force.

18

3

25

75

Aug 4

Part sail part motor to Roccella Ionica. A mystery port, to us, at least. A massive investment, many spaces but, apparently no charge for up to 5 days. On the visitors pontoons, many are fingers, no water or electricity. If you go past these, you may get water. We saw Italians hurrying off with papers and, as the Guardia Costiera seemed active, we did likewise. They wanted papers, Insurance documents, all passports. We filled in a form that wanted all the data off the docs, which they copied anyway. And that was that.

45

1

0

0

Aug 5

For the passage to Riposto, the Italian Met had a gale warning out for the Northern Ionian. However, the US GRIB forecast showed this to be confined to the S Adriatic side of the area. The wind did just about everything except reach gale or near gale force. Started with a nice N 3/4, went light, came back NE 4 increased to 6. Died away again. Getting away from the Calabrian coast it suddenly, with about 30 seconds warning came back at a good N 5 or 6. This gave a nice fast Genoa only reach at 7+ knots. Approaching the Sicily coast, the Sicily sea breeze effect gave us, first a Westerly headwind which then backed to a SW. All very interesting meteorologically.

Of course, the Italian forecast gave no hint of any of this. As I have said elsewhere, their marine forecast service must be the worst in Europe. It is most irresponsible to give a blanket forecast of gales for a very big sea area when that cannot be the case. It simply leads sailors to ignore the forecast on another occasion.

74

5

45

225

Aug 6 - 9

At Riposto, one of the best marinas anywhere and along with Punta Gabbiani, the best in Italy that we have aver used. They are friendly and efficient. nothing is too much trouble. At €45 a night for our 10.3 m, this may be more expensive a marina than many. But, in this world, you get what you pay for. We thought that it was well worth it. The only shortcomings are that there is no Internet access on site and that the laundry service is poor.

There is very good food shopping a few metres away with an excellent fish market, very good vegetables and fruit. Peaches were in season. We got the best apples for a long time. All the stall holders were very good humoured. Shopping was a pleasure. And very good value..

We booked a trip to Etna using Yacht Services on site. A very good day, taxi to the cable car, Four wheel drive buses from the top of the lift to the most recent craters with a guided tour. €88 each..

Aug 10

A short motor to the bay at Naxos in the south of the bay of Taormina. In NW winds this can be remarkably sheltered, but the wind had been NE giving a swell that died very slowly. The views of the local coast are spectacular.

7

1

Aug 11

Some sailing, some motoring to Messina. Despite various dire warnings, we found the marina to be helpful although they would not accept a reservation even on the day. They responded on the phone and VHF. The ormeggiatori were good and helpful.

There is a great deal of wash from ferries. The mooring is on finger pontoons with a stern line to help hold you off the finger. The marina is expensive but the upkeep costs must be high for pontoons and mooring lines.

Shopping as good at a nearby supermarket.

30

2

80

160

Aug 12

We had intended to go on the afternoon north going stream. However, the sight of the problems that other were having against the strong afternoon wind deterred us. Watching what happened and seeing boats coming down the strait against the current, using contra currents was most enlightening. Well worth the extra days fee.

Aug 13

Taking the lead of an Italian sailor, we left in the early morning before any strength of head winds and just before the maximum north going current. This worked like a charm. A very smooth passage.

Intentions had been Milazzo on the N coast of Sicily. However, after telling us to come and call them at noon, they said there was no room. Very unhelpful.

The alternate was Portorosa, an odd place. First impressions were good - helpful on the phone and on arrival. The appearance is that it is rather up market and priced accordingly. After that it was downhill. It is a complex of houses and low rise apartments, owned or rented with moorings. It reminded us slightly of Benaldemena. In fact its is not nearly as bad as that.

However, there are too many motor boats of all sizes that just seem to be used for day trips. To see them all rushing off like lemmings late morning and all returning early evening is a sight to wonder at. You can count them out and count them back! Most just seem to go to a nearby bay. Too many cars trying to get in and out. Canned music. Poor shops on site, failed supermarket and two failed restaurants. Something has gone wrong. For a yacht in transit, it is expensively over priced. The best aspects are that it was quiet at night and dark with no or few lights. Peaceful.

For food, it was far better to walk to the nearby village where there is a very good mini market and other shops.

38

1

81

81

Aug 14

Motored to a bay (Punta di Porci) on the S of Vulcano, just E of Geltro. On arrival it was nearly full with motor boats but all left to give us a nice quiet night with a little rock and roll from passing ships.

17

1

Aug 15 - 16

Motored round to Port Levante to find a space in the bay and just enjoy swimming in the very warm, if sulphurous smelling water. The well stocked supermarket here sells Larios gin at a sensible price. We stocked up!

Although it was August, there was no problem in finding space in Port Levante and boats still came right into the evening. If Levante is full, then Punta di Porci on the SE corner will be empty come evening.

5

2

Aug 17

Error of judgement. Forecasts had been suggesting that Friday could be a good day to make the passage to Troppea. The forecasts changed a little and I did not take that sufficiently into account. We had a 52 mile motor. Had we left it a day it would probably have been a good sail.

Troppea was full which was a pity on three accounts. We had a rolly anchorage outside the harbour. We could not update on Troppea since three years earlier. We could not visit the town.

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1

Aug 18 - 21

A short motor to Vibo Valentia, Marina del Stella Sud. A smallish, very friendly marina in a commercial harbour. Shopping is close and good, it is quiet. There is an on site bar but very limited toilets. It is run by the redoubtable Angela, Canadian/Italian who makes communication easy for all. The find this time was that the Alvi, an otherwise rather unpleasant discount store was the only place to buy our preferred beer, St Miguel.

Weather dictated that we stayed for 5 nights. No hardship at a very reasonable €35 a night..

12

5

35

175

Aug 22

Mainly motoring but with a brief 40 minutes spinnaker reach to Cetraro. Here the inner basin was completely full with local boats most on tailed lines. We and other visitors had to moor on the outside of the basin. Luckily it was a quiet night. Of interest were the raging fires fanned by the Sirocco. A constant dowsing from a helicopter seemed to have minimal effect.

50

1

0

0

Aug 23

Cetraro is not a place to stay at unless really necessary. We motored to Scario. This is a delightful little place obviously popular with holidaymakers. We were very lucky as most places were taken by long stay boats (August!) and got the one free space. There are tailed lines and water but no charge. Had good meal at restaurant up steps opposite pedestrian access to the quay.

31

1

0

-

Aug 24

A short motor (still no wind) to a popular anchorage off Capo Palinuro. Very popular but it quietened during the evening - except for a very loud disco from a local hotel.

12

1

Aug 25

To Acciaroli. Here there are the luxury of tailed lines, water and electricity - at a price! The harbour as a whole is being revamped and it will become marina standard in the not too distant future. The plans on display look ambitious but they are clearly on track. There will be showers and toilets on the main quay. Despite the price hike from zero with zero facilities it was now €60, admittedly in August. We like Acciaroli. It is an old town that has retained its charm. There are few shops but we were there for the very good Monday market. Restaurants are good and not expensive. I asked for and got a discount for the third night.

17

3

60

160

Aug 29

Was a long motor to the anchorage off Capri. as we neared Capri the wind increased a little and stayed up over night, the southerly coming through the dip in the island. Despite the weed the anchor held firm.

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1

Aug 30

A difficult decision. Out to the Pontines and thence to Gaeta or Gaeta direct. We chose the latter and had a very long dead run with the wind a little too strong at times for the spinnaker.

Gaeta was full and no chance of getting in. However, the anchorage just outside the marina is very well protected by a boom and large sausages. The holding is extremely good in glutinous mud. We did some shopping, used the DIY washing machine at the marina and lazed.

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3

Sep 2

With strong Northerly winds expected in three days time, we decided to get to Anzio in one hop to the anchorage. After an early start we motored much of the way to Circe's island and a little beyond before the US GRIB forecast of SW winds came true. With unerring fallibility, the Italian forecast had a north wind all day.

51

1

Sep 3

Mainly motor to Ostia, Porto Turistico di Roma. We stayed here long enough to do most of our decommissioning in the comfort of a large marina with restaurants and nearby shopping. Here there are many shops of the boutique variety, singularly useless for our purposes but, also, several restaurants of various types, a moderate chandlers, a mini market, not cheap but with good fresh produce, post office, holes in the wall, supermarkets not too far away to walk, quite good security.

25

7

44

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Sep 10

Up the Tiber with apologies to Frankie Howerd, to Nautilus Marina where they just had had a fire that wiped out their offices and all their records. Even back up disks that were kept in the office. They now know about the need for a remote archive!

Everyone is very helpful here, the yard is a family concern run by Paolo who welcomed us. It is a little like being up the river Bure in Norfolk. Fairly quiet, reeds, river traffic. The nearest food shops are a fair distance away, walkable but better by taxi for a large shop.

3