Rome to Cagliari - 2008

Date

Log

Miles

Nights

?
Night

Total
?

Port

Anchor or Buoy

April 22

Returned to Marina Nautilus (really a boat yard). Anhinga in good shape. The yard had repainted all the Hallberg Rassy blue stripes on the hull and around the cockpit and replaced names and logos. Polishing and waxing was well done. If you do not look too closely at the deck, it looks like a new boat

April 23 to 28

Fitting out, installing new Raymarine ST60+ displays chart table light, new fuel lift pump and general house keeping. There is a small supermarket some 20 minutes walk away but bigger supermarkets really necessitate a taxi. The small restaurant at the yard. is very good during the week and does good weekend meals.

In 2008, there were no showers at the yard but they had had a fire in 2007. Perhaps in the future....A major plus is the manager and owner's son, Paolo, who has an English mother and speaks very good English as do his office staff. Most of the workmen have some English. Everyone is very helpful. Not a cheap place but value for money.

April 29

Round to Ostia (Porto Turistico di Roma) for very welcome showers, clothes washing, more provisioning. Met David Heath on Alegria, a home built American cutter from Seattle, and a number of liveaboards who had wintered at Ostia.

The small on-site mini-market was being refurbished but was becoming quite a useful facility. The main problem for visitors at Ostia is the remoteness of the Capitaineria which is at the far northern end of the marina. You keep fit just by walking there.

3

3

22

66

May 2

Returned to Marina Nautilus. We had a very persistent white deposit on the blue band just above the waterline. Although it seemed unlikely, we wished to check at the yard. Paolo and his people said that it always happened there and showed is several new Hanse yachts all with the same deposit. Even after using detergent, it quickly returned. Subsequently, we determined that this deposit must be some nastiness from upriver. It is quite tenacious but, once away from the river, it can be cleaned off and does not return.

3

1

May 3

To Civitavecchia - Riva di Traiano - with a slow start but a nice gentle spinnaker run. As last time, a friendly marina with boats to meet and shepherd you in.

29

1

30

May 4

Jennifer had been suffering stomach pains, so I took her to hospital. See above. The marina gave us a good reduced rate for the stay.

20

370

May 4 to 24

At Riva di Traiano with Jennifer in hospital and recuperating.

The pluses here are the on-site small but quite adequate food shop which was open all the time, despite it being invierno and the very friendly, helpful, English speaking harbourmaster. After a while we sorted out the bus service to the hospital. A big minus is that the ATM (Bancomat) does not accept British cards - none of ours, at least. It always gives a message saying "no link". The marina is a little out on a limb. There is a very big Co-op supermarket about 25 minutes walk away but, surprisingly, no Bancomat. We used the hospital machine, otherwise it would mean a bus trip to town to find a Bancomat or a longish walk. Not good for visitors. Otherwise, even in May the various chandlers were all open.

We like Riva di Traiano and were sorry to leave.

May 24

Jennifer's first sail after the operation was a run/very broad reach under Genoa alone. We averaged nearly 5 knots to Cala Cala Galera. Friendly and welcoming. Many shops but only one small restaurant and a Yacht club which the Capitaineria said did not allow visitors to use its restaurant.

23

3

38

114

May 25 to 31

At Cala Galera. Took the bus to Ercole where we found an excellent butcher but poor eating out. A leak in the sea water pump caused us to stay an extra day, sensibly as the wind was a little strong for Jennifer. The extra day turned out to be several days as the weather steadfastly refused to listen to any forecasts.

Although we always carry a water pump repair kit, it is a job that I prefer to leave to the professionals. Here we had very poor treatment. The Volvo engineer said that he could not look at it until mid June. I can understand him being busy in May, but very disappointed that he could not offer a service to In transito yachts. I began the job myself. After a telephone call for advice to the very helpful DB Marine, Cookham Bridge, Maidenhead, I fixed the pump but got a leak in the inlet pipe to the pump. Probably a faulty seal.

Back to the Volvo agent to find they were closing for lunch. OK, I showed the man the seal. He said come back at 2 o'clock. When I returned, the office was open. The secretary directed me to the workshop where I found the same man who told my very sharply to go back to the secretary. When I said that she had sent me to him he become rude and shouted "Go to the secretary." After more unpleasantness, I finally got them together. The outcome was to be told to come back at 5-30. There is no other source of Volvo spares at Cala Galera which is a large marina. We did a jury rig that held up.

Moral - avoid Cala Galera if you want a Volvo agent. You will get no service and cannot even get parts. A great pity because, otherwise it is a pleasant place.

I called DB Marine, who were again very helpful, and got the part number for the seal for when I find a more helpful Volvo agent. Volvo, please take note.

May 31

Finally, a good day to leave Cala Galera. A nice sail, broad reach/dead run under boomed out Genoa, then a Spinnaker run finally too shy approaching Elba. Anchored in the bay of Porto Azzurro.

45

1

June 1 - 4

In the Marina at Porto Azzurro. We like this place despite the price. A nice little town. good Co-op supermarket good butchers, DIY washing machines (rare in Italy). The only problem is the lack of toilets. These were undergoing renovation. In any case, when we here last, this was run by an old crone who charged quite a lot for their use.

3

45

135

June 4

Had intended to go round Elba to Porto Marciana as a convenient place to leave for Macinaggio. However, the engine was giving problems. The starter motor was not turning too well. The indicator on the battery suggested it was not in good shape. We diverted to Porto Ferraiao - Marina Esacom Cesa where we were charged an exorbitant ?57 for the night. They could not spare a man to do a battery test, so we bought a new battery to be sure.

15

1

57

57

June 5

To Macinaggio .Mostly a good sail with SE winds dying but coming back SW. The engine gave a different problem in that the revs kept dying away and increasing. Not very comforting. Macinaggio very welcoming except that we had to berth down wind in a strong gust wind. At last, back to sensible marina pricing. also good French food shopping. Back in France felt like coming home again.

43

1

26

26

June5/7

To Menton on the basis of some very uncertain forecasts. A fair amount of motoring but a good passage otherwise.

102

3

22

67

June 8, 9. 10

At Menton, surely one of our favourite south French ports. A good price, free showers, very good shopping. Just a very pleasant place. We got an engineer to look at the engine. He diagnosed what we had really come to suspect, that it was a result of fuel bug. A very helpful Volvo agent, a very nice change from Cala Galera. He sold us an additive, said run for two hours and come back if it did not run OK. It seemed OK

June 10

A short motor to Villefranche anchorage, rather noisy. Had intended staying over night but the forecast suggested that the following night might not be good and maybe an increasing SW wind during the day. Left for Iles Lérins to an anchorage off Ile Ste Marguérite. The engine was getting worse. Losing revs then regaining them but never stopping.

32

1

June 11

Decided that we needed to change or at least get the fuel filtered and that Port la Napoule would be as good a place as any. The marina was very helpful, telephoned an engineer for us who came within minutes. The only berth was really for a larger boat. A little pricey, but they were helpful in time of need. Another very helpful engineer. Very glad that we are not at Cala Galera.

5

2

43

86

June 12

Engineer came back and emptied/cleaned tank. Very helpful, very pleasant. Charged a very reasonable price. It needed an electric pump to clear the tank properly. Not a job the we could have done ourselves.

June 13

As an engine check, motored over to Iles Lérins. Engine sounds good, far better and with no changes in revs. Despite a forecast of variable force 1-3, mainly east from Météo France and NW force 2 from MétéoConsult, we had an easterly force 5, slowly decreasing to calm, then a brief spell, before dawn, of west force 4.

5

1

June 14

A beat against an unsteady wind to Baie de Baumette - Rade d'Agay - where there are buoys put in place by the town of St Raphaël to protect the sea bed. The livre de Bord talks about anarchic anchoring" Surely not in France? ?14.5 not bad, we thought. Cheaper than Salcombe, and they help you onto the buoy (actually it would have been easier to do it ourselves).

18

1

15

15

June 15

We could have gone further, but we like St Raphael. Mainly it is the delicatessen in the supermarket and boulangerie cum patisserie at the marina. These are the main shopping for the nearby well heeled area. The supermarket is a Spar but a world removed from our normal perceptions of Spar.

Here we met two Belgian yachts, Jean with his wife and two dogs, Luc single-handed waiting for friends. Discovered we had met Jean some years earlier in Menton.

6

2

27

54

June 17

The wind was right to move on with adverse winds for the following two days. A nice run to Cavalaire-sur-mer at Jean's suggestion. A new place for us.

Although touristy, very much a holiday resort, Cavalaire has some of the best traiteurs and other small food shops. You really do realise why France and good food are synonymous.

Still having engine problems - cutting out when manoeuvring under slow revs. Very unnerving. We tried yet another engineer who found some serious blockage in the fuel lines at the exit to the fuel tank. remnants of bacteria, no doubt. Hope that has solved the problem.

23

2

21

63

June 20

Another near dead run to Ile Porquerolles. Met our two Belgian friends again. Porquerolles, as ever, was busy during the day with many day trippers but pretty quiet at night.

Engine still cutting out under slow revs.

Met CA Nicholson 35, Riot of Blue and tied up a story from 2001. We had seen Riot of Blue at anchor in Porto Vecchio. I had swum over for a chat but they seemed strangely reluctant to talk. They now explained - and apologised. Apparently, they had both been starkers and were unwilling to say so. This is not the first time that a story hanging in the air has been completed much later.

Met another British boat, got talking to them. As a result, Quentin Huggett is now a CA member.

12

3

22

66

June 23

To Sanary-sur-mer with little wind to start but a nice spinnaker run to abeam Cap Sicié.

Sanary was our first port in Mediterranean France when we came here in 2001. It is a great small town with many excellent small food shops. All of very high standard. An attraction is the number of lateen rigged boats around the harbour which is in the middle of the town. You really feel part of the town. Perhaps even more than Menton our favourite port on this coast.

We witnessed a jousting competition on the water. Two boats powered by outboard engines, each with a platform on the stern. On each is a "knight" with a lance and protected by a breast plate. The object is to "unhorse" the opponent. They began with youngsters and worked up to a final round with two very sturdy men.

23

2

20

40

June 25

We were meeting our elder son and family - probably wanting to verify that Jennifer had recovered from the operation. They were on holiday between Montpelier and Nimes. La Ciotat was one possibility in the Vieux Port, or Marseilles, Pointe Rouge. La Ciotat seemed the better and as a mistral was expected we decided to take a look.

A very good choice indeed. It is very much a small working town that used to have substantial shipyards. These are now being re-established as yards for work on super yachts. It seems an ideal place with plenty of space and a workforce on hand. The town has many good small shops of all forms. Many restaurants and a good one at the Yacht Club in the Vieux Port.

Although limited in number (one each for m and f), showers were free and always hot. The charge at a shade over ?22 a night was very fair. Having arrived in good time to meet the family and then being weather bound by mistrals, 12 nights was no hardship and we were quite sorry to leave.

Here we met Roger and Mo, Royal Cornwall members, on their motor boat, Stargazer Lily. They were good company especially as Roger had a marine engineering background and had owned a boatyard. We finally solved our engine problems with his advice and encouragement.

10

12

22

264

July 7

Back to Sanary in a brisk F 4 to 5 taking advantage of a lull in the mistrals.

12

3

27

81

July 10

To the anchorage just east of Porquerolles marina with a pleasant fairly gentle beat. A very quiet night.

29

1

July 11

To Cavalaire, even if only for the excellent traiteurs. A nice beat initially, but became light and a little frustrating approaching the bay of Cavalaire. Quick reply on channel 9 again, very helpful.

24

1

37

37

July 12

Mistral expected, decided St Raphael is a quieter place - more our style than the touristy Cavalaire.

21

32

96

July 13, 14

How right we were! some mistral, not well forecast by Météo France or the GRIB files. Still, St Raphael is quiet in all ways.

July 15

Round to Rade d'Agay for a pleasant day lazing. Rather rolly overnight.

4

1

15

15

July 16

To the anchorage at Iles Lérins thence to Napoule to be in good time in a secure berth for Margaret (not feeling too good) to return to the UK. Excellent taxi firm (David, 0600 0952 5625) came when he said, right to the boat. Marina very friendly, helpful and not expensive.

14

3

30

90

July 19

To anchorage, Iles Lérins.

5

1

July 20

To Menton, Vieux Port was full, so went to Garavan. When I called, on the telephone, they said they were full, but we simply arrived and went on to the accueil pontoon while they found a berth. Very helpful. Very quiet. Although very convenient for a large Super U, it is not a very good one. the Vieux Port is nearer the main town and more pleasant.

24

2

35

70

July 22

Looked good for the crossing to Calvi. Not bad, although too much motoring. Used the buoys outside Calvi marina. Very convenient, there is a water tap near the dinghy dock so that you can carry water back to the boat. All shops close and a very good Super U.

Amazingly, few skippers arriving seemed to know how to pick up a buoy and some even made a hash of it when the boat boy was waiting for the line.

95

3

25

75

July 26

Round the coast, motoring to the very quiet anchorage off #galéria Galéria. A truly pleasant anchorage that we have used before..

16

1

July 27

A difficult beat in a lumpy sea, finished off motoring around the impressive Ile de Gargalu to Girolata. Here, all the excitement has been taken away by some very organised fore and aft buoys and very helpful boat boys to shoehorn you in. Even so, one yacht managed to damage another one quite badly. As well as restaurants there is a small alimentation and par baked baguettes available.

16

1

25

25

July 28

Mainly sailing to #cargèseCargèse which must be one of our favourite Corsican ports. Very helpful on arrival. A steep walk to the town but Spar will bring you back with the shopping if you spend enough. Good restaurants and generally quiet. The two churches, Catholic and Greek Orthodox glowering at each other is worth seeing as is the knowledge that one priest serves them both! Unique.

13

2

33

66

July 30

A short sail to Sagone. An odd place, mainly a resort but remarkably quiet. We had expected a loud disco. As it happened, it was the quietest night imaginable. The night time wind came down the valley and blew a steady force 2 all night keeping us absolutely steady as a rock.

5

1

July 31

A gentle sail to Iles Sanguinaires, at least to the anchorage on the mainland opposite the Isles. Had we been more adventurous we would have used the anchorage off the south of the Isles as did some others. As it was we had a quiet night apart from vessel swell.

14

1

August 1

Motor to Ajaccio for provisions, laundry, hair do for Jennifer. Used the wall outside the port Charles-Ornano. The upside is that it is cooler than in the marina. The downside is the swell caused by every motor boat that passes. It does stop at night and was less on the Saturday than the Friday. Helpful in getting boats in, but call on Ch 9.

7

2

35

70

Aug 3

A good sail to Porto Pollo in the Golfe de Valinco. We picked up a buoy but did not take too much notice of the small and scruffy fender attached to it as a pick up, we thought. Later, luckily before dinner time, a Frenchman told us that it was his buoy and "booked" by the fender. Never mind, we moved to the adjoining bay, just to the east to have a nice quiet night at anchor.

25

1

Aug 4/5

Wanting some shopping and also to see the improvements at Propriano, we motored over to refuel and seek a berth. Fuelling was OK, but no berth and nowhere apparently to anchor. Not very impressed, we returned to Porto Pollo, this time onto a free buoy. This really was a find. The small Spar supermarket is very good indeed, better than that we remembered in Propriano some few years ago. There is also a boulangerie/patisserie and a local produce stall. There is water available on the quay, also free hot showers and fuel. Really, there is no need to go into Propriano and pay their high prices. The harbourmaster at Porto Pollo (also known as Porto Tomi) is very helpful and observant. As soon as he realises that you are a stranger he goes out of his way to make you welcome and tell you what the facilities are. All for a very modest ?13 a night in August. We recommend Porto Pollo/Tomi.

11

2

13

26

Aug 6

Another very good day sailing to Anse de Fornello, between Bonifacio and Cap Senetose. There is very good holding in the bay over a wide area. Very pleasant and quiet. The head of the bay is buoyed off although you can explore by dinghy.

26

1

August 7

Expecting some very strong winds we had been planning on getting to Porto Pozzo on the north coast of Sardinia. This gave us yet another excellent day sailing. We anchored at the second attempt, the bottom has much very thick weed.

23

3

August 8/9

Returning from shopping we found that we were dragging in the rising wind despite having given a good hard astern last night. There were some vacant buoys so, knowing that gales were expected, we picked up one. The show started with a vengeance, Every boat at anchor dragged. All bar one found a buoy. He managed to find good holding. Moral - only anchor at Porto Pozzo if winds of less than force 5 are expected. Otherwise, either get onto a buoy or really check and keep checking that you are holding. We saw one yacht go ashore onto rocks, a motor boat get very close before being pulled off and another that was dragging until alerted by a friendly sailboarder. They were down below and unaware of impending catastrophe.. There was no charge for the buoy.

Porto Pozzo is a pleasant laid back place. Two alimentations, the one nearer to the quay is the better. Water on the quay is non potable, use the "fountain" near the head of the quay. .The nearest bancomat and butchers are about 3 or 4 km away. The only drawback is the incredible large number of RIBs that come and go at high speed.

Aug 10

A short sail to la Gavetta on Maddalena. A very pleasant port. We were met by a RIB and shepherded to a berth. Very helpful. A little pricey, but it is August.

7

1

47

47

Aug 11

It must have been Maddalena on a bad Monday morning on a hot day. Three cash point machines were out of order. The Spar supermarket was poor, crowded, their trolleys of good packing the aisles, Only two tills. Wished we were back at Porto Pollo on Corsica. Finally found that one cash point was working but had to wait for ages in a queue in the sun. Produce market poor.. No good alimentation in the town, or none that we have found, Porto Pozzo was far better for fruit and vegetables. Our minds turned back to the definitions of heaven and hell, The second is a place organised by Italians. Rarely does the reality live up to the joke. Maddalena did today.

Motored around the corner to the anchorage in Golfo Saline. The stretch of water between Maddalena and the mainland is very busy with ferries and other craft. there were small sailing dinghies, small yachts but massive motor cruisers all came through at top speed creating a most disturbed sea. It seemed that the size of the wake and waves were demonstrations of virility but by no means confined to Italians. One of the largest waves was caused by a large schooner registered in the Cayman Islands.

On Golfo Saline there was a strong sea breeze blowing in creating an uncomfortable swell. However, as predicted by the resident meteorologist, the swell died away and we had a very quiet night, This is a good place to ride out a mistral gale but no good in a strong easterly gradient wind . Holding is excellent.

6

1

Aug 12

Motored into the Maddalena national park to Dead man's Reef anchorage off Isola Budelli. Very impressive despite the world being there with his wife and his boat, often a RIB. On previous experience we fully expected to be asked to pay for being in the park but saw nobody looking like a park ranger. Maybe it is just too much effort. We guess that spot checks are made and you may get lucky. Monthly and seasonal passes are available. Perhaps locals all pay these.

Then a pleasant little sail to Porto Puddu, a new anchorage for us. Not easy, as the bottom in the recommended area is very uneven and adjacent boats may have anchored in quite different depths and amount of chain.. Very quiet - apart from one boat (it may have been two) with crews talking, laughing and singing quite oblivious to the way sound carries over water, Despite the pilot talking about poor holding, we found some very thick sticky mud.

15

1

Aug 13

A pleasant short sail to Porto Palma on Isola Caprera, one of our preferred anchorages in the area but is in the national park. You might have to pay. we did not. The two sailing schools provided some spectator interest. Come night time there were about three motor boats, most having left, and 25 yachts. Very good holding and well sheltered.

8

1

Aug 14

The GFS GRIBs had been promising strong winds and Météo France now hinted at F 8/9 for the latter half of the 15th. We needed some shopping and washing. Perhaps a good time to spend some cash. Cannigione was likely to be very expensive, we decided on La Gavetta as less so. The only berths were on the quay around the town right by the road, street cafés, shops etc. Very friendly but also noisy. The traffic never stopped overnight.

5

3

47

141

Aug 15

Feast of the Assumption, so shops only open this morning, Found better alimentations this time and better bread. La Gavetta looking better. Winds continuing, stayed another day.

Aug 17

To Cala di Volpe, a playground for the rich. Just outside the anchorage is an area with buoys for mega yachts. Reading the Italian Pagine Azzurre, we gather that this area has all mod con. Internet access, communications, water taxis etc etc all free!. Otherwise it was very pleasant if rather crowded. Deep in the anchorage there are some rocks allegedly marked with beacons. A British yacht hit them with some force.

Here again we had the syndrome of large motor boats going at great speed heedless of others. The wave caused by one came right over our sprayhood - and we were in the mooring area for these beasts.

12

1

Aug 18

To Isola di Porri, a delightful anchorage just outside Olbia. Met Maridadi registered in Dartmouth but members of the Royal Lymington/

13

1

Aug 19

Motor into Olbia to moor on the quay near the yacht club/ We had hoped that the museum of Roman galleys, found here some ten years ago, would now be open. In seven months! Ah, well.

Luckily, we did the shopping that evening. Whilst going for bread in the morning the Guardia Costiera came along, left a form with Jennifer and said "Please go by 0900, we have a large vessel coming in." When I get back, they said take the form to the Tabaccio and pay about ?14. It was then 0850. I said that we could not clear by 0900 AND go and pay. They said GO. We did, but felt sorry for any late arrivals who had not shopped. All for a very large Greek motor yacht.

5

1

0

Aug 20

To Cala Coda Cavallo an old favourite. Very popular, many boats during the day, very people noisy, but fun. It thins out at night. During the night the NW wind freshened a little. Now we knew why some had left before dark to go round the corner.

13

1

Aug 21

Which is what we did the following morning to another delightful anchorage, Cala Capecciolo, near to Porto Brandinghi. Not as many boats but many people on the beach. The sea breeze died away to give a nice quiet night.

4

1

Aug 22

To La Caletta. The early morning calm became a sea breeze that veered in text book fashion as it always does on this coast to give a beat. As before, we arrived at La Caletta just as the sea breeze was at its strongest. This time we were able to use a port authority mooring and come in upwind. rather expensive, but all included.

Fine, the loos were toilet, shower and bidet combined. Very nice at first sight. But of four toilets in the gents, only two worked. No paper so that is why they did have bidets. The showers treated a flood. Badly designed and badly maintained.

18

1

56

56

Aug 23

Last time along here we had noted the anchorage just north of Capo Comino. It looked well sheltered from the sea breeze . So it was, and we anchored on the clearest, flattest sandy bottom imaginable. Lovely swimming in warm water. There was just a little swell, more niggling than annoying. Unfortunately, overnight an increase in NW winds to the north created a swell that came in from the NE making it most unpleasant.

To make matters worse, the gas cylinder ran out. We replaced it but the gas would not come on. The regulator had packed up. No coffee.

7

1

Aug 24

After a coffee-less breakfast made an early start for Santa Maria Navaresse, an old favourite. As ever the wind on this stretch of coast defied description. We started with a very fast broad reach past Capo Comino, 9 knots seen on the log t one time. Thinking about a reef when the wind dropped to near calm, motoring. Then a light SE. More calms. Then S, increased to a good F5. Marginal reefing conditions. Will we, won't we. Then eased to a very steady 3-4. Stood well out to sea to allow for the sea breeze veer.. Decided to tack on a course which might let us make Santa Maria, with luck. The wind backed and we sailed free and fast.

The same harbourmaster as before, friendly and helpful with good English although the berthing assistant had none.

47

2

45

90

Aug 25

At Santa Maria Navaresse, shopped, did laundry, lazed. Ate at Ristorante Lungomare, good and not expensive.

Aug 26

At last found good supermarket - Sigma - after two miserable ones .Intended to anchor off Isolas dell'' Ogluastra but the wind was wrong. Headed over to Arbatax hoping for enough shelter by the harbour wall but no luck. Decided to go in as we like the place, despite the oil drilling wells (still not doing very much/ Met by an Ormeggiatoro from Barrow-in-Furness. Came out here with his ketch some while ago and just stayed.
Used to be low cost. Not now in August. but good showers, washing machines, chandlers.

4

1

46

46

Aug 27

Motored a fair amount then a short sail to Corallo. This is the quietest of all harbours. Laid back so far as to be nearly horizontal. We have always found space here. There are some provisions, adequate with good bread at the campsite across the road. The campsite itself is rather like a POW set in a WW2 film. Grim. There is a good pizzeria even closer. More provisions means a 2 to 3 km hike.

Here we met HROA members Derek and Thea Havery with their HR37, Pilgrim IV. Also a French couple with a limited edition Bavaria Ocean 40. A very good solid boat.

Jennifer did some re-caulking of the decks, the caulking was slow to harden so we stayed a third night.

34

3

39

117

Aug 30

A good sail to Cala Piras, a few mile north of Cabo Carbonara. Good holding in some of the clearest water imaginable. There is a campsite ashore, but it looked rather upmarket. Certainly little noise. A British motor boat joined us during the evening and a British ketch registered in Brixham the following morning. The latter had picked up a buoy qt Porto Cervo - for ?75!!!

18

1

Aug 31

Another good sail to the anchorage in the bay outside Villasimius. With a rising wind, we moved to the shelter of the harbour wall and had a quiet night.

12

1

Sept 1

Shopped at the campsite, very good but then got moved on by the Guardia Costiera. It is a protected area. No anchoring within 200 m of the shore. There is now no sheltered anchorage there. Went into the marina and found great changes. There is now a good supermarket, not quite as well stocked as the campsite but all good quality. Fresh meat, good cheese and cold meats, vegetables and fruit. No need to use the campsite. There is a bancomat, a chandlers, a laundry (service), a small boutique and a bar cum restaurant.

2

40

80

Sep 3

A last good sail with an exhilarating spinnaker run to our winter berth at Cagliari - the new Marina St Elmo, run by our old friend Enrico Deplano, the CA Hon Local Rep. Much needs to be done but he is on the right track. Everyone friendly and helpful, All his ormeggiatori had enough English (he pays for them to have tuition in marine English), toilets and showers limited but clean, washing machine. The rest will come in time.

Met CA boat Three Sheets, another Bavaria Ocean, with Geoff Withrington, CA members Mike and Christine Bizzey on Rompa and Minnamurra, another CA boat, a Nicholson 38 ketch. Also Dave Hardy and Sue Hodgson on Fiona a Victoria 40.

21