On this page
A straightforward, day to day account of what we have done during the current year's cruise. What we found may help others. I hope that anyone interested in the area will cherry pick rather than trying to read from start to finish.
Our boat is a Hallberg Rassy 34, Anhinga. Home port is Darthaven, Kingswear opposite Dartmouth.
Mainly due to age, Jennifer and I cannot now sail unaided. This year, plan was for our son, John, Penni and their dog, Timmy to sail with us to and around Brittany. Timmy is the complicating factor. We can take him to Guernsey and on to France but cannot return that way. At some stage, Penni will have to take him to Dieppe and thence by ferry to Newhaven. This is one of the few Channel crossing possible for a dog without a car.’
Ports visited
St Peter Port
Lézardrieux
Roscoff
L’Aber Wrac’h
Audierne
Loctudy
Port Louis
Port Haliguen
Pornichet
Port Joinville, Ile d’Yeu
St Martin de Ré
St Denis d’Oléron
Les Sables d’Olonne
Back to Port Joinville, Ile d’Yeu
Pornic
Piriac-sur-mer
Les Roches Bernard
Bridge at Cran, Rieux and back to Les Roches Bernard
Back at Les Roches Bernard
Arzal lock
Port Haliguen for a second time
Loctudy again
Loctudy again
Camaret
L’Aber Wrac’h
Roscoff again
To St Peter Port.10 June, 77 miles.
For several days, forecasts had shown a good (westerly)direction but pretty light but, as the planned departure day approached, forecast strengths increased to a good F5 with a touch of 6. So it turned out to be a good fast sail with full main and 1/3 Genoa until mid- Channel when it gradually eased. The shipping lanes were kind to us. We went south about Guernsey arriving St Peter Port a short while before enough water over the sill.
To Lézardrieux. 11 June 46 miles.
In view of the low tidal coefficient, we were able to leave St Peter Port rather later than the usual optimum time giving us a longer sleep after yesterday’s long sail. We arrived at the Trieux river as the east going was starting to increase but not enough to be a problem.
At Lézardrieux.
We have a problem with the domestic battery in that it is not holding enough charge even to handle iPads. The local Accastillage/chattier was not very helpful, nor was the Roscoff Ship. In the end we have ordered a replacement from Amazon to be delivered to Roscoff.
The Saturday market was pretty good and fairly quiet but good. We ate at the Les Art Deo, the pseudo Breton crêperie. As always, quiet and a little understated.
To Roscoff. 48 miles, 16th June.
The forecast was a favourable direction but light, We motored until we passed the Bar ar Gall W Cardinal buoy marking the entrance to the Bay of Morlaix. After that it was a good sail
The boat girl tried to give us a berth on Pontoon F! We explained that we had a 90 year old lady on board. She kindly found a berth on A! Age, sometimes is a useful card to play.
At Roscoff.
Waiting for our new battery was no hardship. The town is pleasant, if rather touristy. The Brasserie at the marina was getting going after being closed. The croissants and pain au chocolat are good as are their Baguettes.
The downside was the non-arrival of the battery promised for Friday 21st, we got a message saying it might not come until the 25th! After much thought, we decided that we could cope while in France but wanted it for the cross-Channel later on. The marina will keep the battery for us.
To L’Aber Wrac’h. 37 miles, 21st June.
This was a “must go” because of winds on following days but hardly ideal. We motored all the way with some wind but too much on the nose. On arrival the only option as the visitors pontoon but we were able to move to a Catway(French for “finger pontoon in the morning.
At L’Aber Wrac’h
We love this rather wild location – “Sauvage” a French lady once called. I do not think that Jorn and Penni share our feelings. The showers have always been a little basic and a little smelly. When a large number of boats arrived, they were worse than normal.
On Sunday , we left Jennifer on the boat and walked to Landeda for shopping. Excellent boulangerie and boucherie/traiteur. The day had started dull and misty but improved greatly. We took John and Penni for a short walk to a rather upmarket café, really a small hotel. The following day I took them to the Semaphore station, now disused, with its great view. We also watched the sailing school with its hordes of youngsters from 5 or 6 upwards learning to sail, wind surf, canoe etc. Always interesting to see the enthusiasm of the youngsters and the care taken by the instructors.
We had a meal at the Captain crêperie. As good as ever. I don’t think John &b Penni will see L’Aber Wrac’h with our eyes although they are beginning to understand our liking for the place.
For a combination of sailing wind an civilised departure time, it looks like Thursday will get us the 55 miles to Audierne another of our favourites but one that J & P do know and like!
We had hoped to leave on Thursday but the forecast of SW 4 or 5 with a big fire would have been unpleasant in the Chenal du Four together with poor visibility. Tomorrow will not be great but rather better with less wind and better visibility.
To Audierne, 27th June, 62 miles,
The forecast looked acceptable, if far from ideal. Météo France got it partly right in predicting strong winds along the Channel coast from L’Aber Wrac’h to the top pf the Chenal fu Four but failed otherwise. The winds were much more southerly - as the GRIBs predicted. Visibility was far from good, with mist and fog. We had to motor through the Chenal but sailed well across the Iroise and were going too fast to take the Raz de Sein at slack water. However, the wind first died the increased again but we had to beat, No problem, the timing still looked good. However, the still strong N going stream and a dropping wind eventually defeated us. We had to motor from the Raz to Auduerne where we arrive half am hour after the marina office closing tine. As we had called them in advance, the lady harbourmaster kindly waited for us.
At Audierne.
Saturday is market day so we made the most of it. Good cheeses, great fruit and vegetables.
L<?
The duty harbourmaster, Amber, kindly took us to see the Pointe du Raz de Sein from ashore. A great trip giving us views that we can only have imagined. The countryside was rural, with no sign of industry apart from basic farming. The area had been identified as a site for a nuclear power station although Amber said the idea had been dropped.
Returning to the boat, a British yacht had rafted with us. We had last seen the skipper leading a singing evening at the Ship Inn, Kingswear. His home berth is in Darthaven.
Last year we met Alain and Christine who kindly invited us to their second home nearby. This year, we were most happy to invite them on board for drinks and a most pleasant evening,
To Loctudy, 1st July, 30 miles.
The forecast was spot on. A slow run to Pointe de Penmarc’h then a slowly increasing wind as we rounded the cardinal buoys Cap Caval, Spineg, Karrek Greis, Boulanger. To our surprise. There were many free slots.
To Port Louis. 3rd July, 36 miles.
After a windy day with strong gusts, this was disappointingly light. We had to motor for about 1 ½ hours around midday. Port Louis replied promptly to our call and guided us to a berth.
To Port Haliguen, 5 July, 26 miles.
A good sail, keeping up a sensible speeds until we rounded the Teignouse lighthouse after which we had a 3 mile close reach in a strong wind. This was really a de faut mieux choice dictated by times of tides and the need to be able to get south, sensibly. This large, highly commercial marina is not a favourite of ours. The saving grace is the excellent Creperie de la vieux port.
Somewhat surprisingly, the only berth they could offer was to raft alongside another yacht in the basin. It is the first weekend of July and the French holiday season.
At Port Haliguen.
As expected, Sunday was a wild, windy day. A good day to be in port. We were able to move from the wet basin to a place that we can leave whatever the tide state. John and I did a quick trip to the shops before moving. Hopefully, tomorrow will be less windy, allowing a move to Pornichet ahead of Ile d’Yeu.
We had an excellent meal at the Creperie du Vieux port, on of the attractions to us of this marina. Another plus this year was the hot water in the showers. You have to reduce the temperature!
Although a little lighter, the wind on the next day was still a little strong, particularly as Penni has a sinus infection. Tuesday looks more sensible.
To Pornichet, 36 miles, 8th July;
A quiet if slightly slow sail with broad reaching or dead running throughout. Probably for the best as Penni and I both have colds. The marina replied promptly and shepherded us to a berth convenient for showers and near the capitainerie. Staff in the Office were most helpful.
At Pornichet
Despite Peter Cumberlidge’s description as “le parking lot”. We quite like Pornichet – primarily for the excellent 6 days a week covered market. One of the best places for fish and all other produce. Penni had organised an Amazon delivery that worked well.
To Port Joinville, 35 miles, 10th July
A disappointing sail after a promising start. Motored most of the way. Port Joinville was filling up rapidly. There was no option but to be part of a raft but we were reassured that we would be able to move to a catway tomorrow.
At Port Joinville.
After a quick run to the boulangerie, we were able to move to finger pontoon. No doubt there are more boats around than when we were last here in 2019 and, of course, we are now in the holiday season with 14th July nigh, however we have never seen it as busy.
To St Martin de Ré, 52 miles, 14th July.
We were expecting a good sail on a broad reach. In fact we had a gentle 40+ gentle spinnaker run before the wind finally increased to give a fast reach for the last few miles.
The port responded promptly and we were able to enter without further delay. As in the past we were rafted 5 out with a stack of British boats.
At St Martin de Ré
Despite being a tourist hotspot, St Martin de Ré has a charm of its own. The surroundings owe much to Vauban. There are the long haired donkeys and the ice cream is top rate. The port, hardly a marina is always fascinating with the ever-present need for multi-rafted boats to be re-organised by the ever helpful marine staff..
We met a Pogo yacht, Accomplice, with Rupert, Stephanie and their family. Their elder son, Will was extremely helpful to all. Hopefully our wakes will cross in the future.
To St Denis d’Oléron, 18th July, 16 miles
This is always a short but difficult passage due to the need to leave St Martin within about 2 hours of HEW and the need to arrive at St Denis well above HWM, on a rising tide. Our 2 metre draft is a constraint. We have seen boats getting the timing wrong and having to endure the ignominy of spending a tide stuck in the mud being photographed by all.
We had a gentle sail initially from St Martin through the La Rochell bridge after which the wind increased to give a good sail. There are waiting buoys close to the marina and we had checked with the extremely helpful harbour master. After about 6 hours we were able to enter safely but had to raft alongside another boat overnight before being moved to a catway. There had been some confusion about out stay here.
At St Denis d’Oléron
After the noise and bustle of St Martin de Ré, St Denis seemed a have of peace and quiet. The market, a short walk away is excellent and the boulangerie/patisserie is on a par with the best.
To Les Sables d’Olonne, 22nd Julu, 38 miles
After 2 days of strong winds touching F8 with heavy rain, this was the sublime to the ridiculous. We motored most of the way with only a little under a little short of 2 hours under sail approaching Les Sables. We had decided to use Quai Garnier for the convenience of shopping. A bad idea. It is noisy during the day and music from cafés went on until 0200.
At Les Sables d’Olonne
We did some shopping then moved to Port Olona just upriver. This is far quieter and much more pleasant. Shopping is a little less convenient although there is a large Carrefours supermarket in one direction fairly close (in the road headed by the fire station tower. There is a small, good covered market in Chau me a little further away.
Current plans are to leave on Friday but this is uncertain. North-West wind are predominant in the forecast.
At Port Olona, the toilets, which were always reasonably good, are now superb. Water pressure and temperature are totally controllable. The water flows until you turn it off. All very modern. The downside is that the excellent laverie close by, has now closed. Boulangeries on the Chaume side of the river have also closed. A sign of the time? Although we had not noticed closure of Boulangeries and patisseries elsewhere.
Back to Port Joinville, 25th July, 53 miles.
Northerlies are set to continue, so choice depend on identifying a day with acceptable winds, we got this one right. Strong enough to sail but no need for a reef. We logged some 53 miles for a 28 mile distance direct. As before, we had to raft out but were assured of a catway in the morning,
At Port Joinville
Being the outside of a 3-boat raft we had an early move to a new berth. The first pleasure was to meet Rupert off Accomplice and, later, the rest of his crew/family.
John and Penni did some more exploring. We had a pleasant evening on the boat with Accomplice.
To Pornic, 38 ,miles, 28th July.
There is now a wind-farm being built a little way north of Ile d’Yeu that as the potential to be an awkward obstacle to a north-going yacht. In the event, we were able to make a tack due west with the initial northerly but then tack as the wind changed and a NW’ly set in. We were close to the charted area and would have crossed the corner but a guard boat positioned itself between Anhinga and the windfarm area and called us on VHF warned us to keep clear. A yacht following us got the same treatment.
Calling the marina on Ch 9, e were given a berth. However the boat that met us gave us a different place. This caused confusion later. One of them said that it had been a long day.
At Pornic
We first came here some 30 years ago in our first boat, Sweet Liberty, little has changed in that time. Pontoons, toilets and the line of undistinguished restaurants. Seemed little different.
Similarly, the town seemed unchanged in a delightful time warp. Penni was not disappointed in my description of Pornic as a fairy tale farm!
To Piriac-sur-mer, 31 July, 38 miles
This was a text book forecast and sail. For several days the forecast was, consistently, for a northerly wind before noon, becoming west around midday. The route involved getting out of the deep bay containing Pornic, then a NNE course dodging wind farms, numerous rocks, many moored cargo ships. John identified a leg towards L’Herbaudiere, then a largely long port tack with one or more short starboard tacks. Wind direction was critical and it could have been vertical difficult.
In the event, it worked like a dream. We left Pornic about 10am, motored out of the bay, sailed to, SW’wards a point north-west of L’Herbaudiere, put in a long port tack with a wind that lifted a little to necessitate only one short starboard tack and arrived outside Piriac about half an hour before enough water to enter the port.
All in all, most satisfactory. On another day, it could have been quite different.
At Piriac-sur-mer
Our old friends on Gemini are fairly near and we are trying to arrange where to meet up. After some discussion, they decided to come here. As usual, we had a great time with them. After a meal out, we had a delightful impromptu piano recital by their talented daughter, Verity. Her range spans from classical to Scott Joplin.
To Les Roches Bernard, 22 miles, August 5th,
After two great days with Gemini, time to move on. Tide time to leave Piriac were such that we should be able to get the Arzal lock 1600 opening time. The wind was on the nose to the river Vilaine entrance and looking good. However, the wind was dying and we had to motor, arriving at the lock with 10 minutes to spare. There were surprisingly few takers and all went smoothly.
Upriver to Les Roches Bernard was as pleasant as usual. A surprise was that the Capitainerie is now in a purpose built accommodation but at the far end of the marina by pontoon H
To the Bridge at Cran, 8th August, 12 miles and Rieux, 9th August 2 miles, back to Les Roches Bernard, 14 miles, 11th August .
We had intended going upriver to Rieux, an old favourite. Published opening times for the Bridge at Cran, just short of Rieux, showed one at 1400. However, it did noy open. A phone call to the operator revealed that, currently, it was only opening at 0930 due to an accident.
The marina had said use the website to get times. However, lower down, well below the schedule, there was a note about the closure. Why did their site not put this not above the schedules? Why did Roches Bernard not know?
There are some pontoons just below the bridge so we decided to overnight and carry one tomorrow. There was no reply on the advertised Ch 9. John and Penni had to climb a “Strictement interdit,” gate to give Timmy a walk but it was a free night.
In the morning, a short sail to Rieux. The municipal campsite is now run by a commercial firm but is still good. In the village, there is now a good boucherie/traiteur. There seemed to be a lot of long-stay boats that would make it difficult for casual visitors but the manager assured us that there was not a problem. They can always raft out as we have done here in the past. There is a good boucherie in the village. The on-site restaurant is an improvement on its former incarnation which was acceptable.
There are long overdue plans to make more of a feature of the historical area hidden in the adjacent woods. The quoted budget looked insufficient.
The run back downriver was quiet.
At Les Roches Bernard
After a hot afternoon, we find it surprising that more boats have sun covers as good as our, it was a very warm night. We had planned to have one night before going through the Arzal lock for an early start to Le Palais, Belle Ile before going on to Locmiquélic, up the Lorient river. However, planned timing would be hot at Locmiquélic and there were thunderstorms in the forecast for Wednesday. After much discussion, we will stay at LAB for another cooler night, go to Le Palais on Thursday and keep fingers crossed.
To Arzal Lock, 13th August, 14 miles
Needing to refuel and wanting a prompt, if not early start tomorrow it seemed sensible to get to and through the lock on the 1700 opening. The lock, as often, was a highly interesting comic opera affair. As usual some sailors had little idea. As often the case, one boat did not heed the lock-keeper’s instructions. As often, someone tried to exit before instructed. A German asked the lock-keeper to speak English and was told that this is France.
It was almost as I had told John and Penni what to expect. Anyway, we have a free berth for the night, reasonably comfortable,
To Port Haliguen again, 14th August, 39 miles
We were intending to go to Le Palais as a relatively cool place as very hot weather is expected. However, progress was slow and the wind direction less favourable than forecast. Looking back at the morning GFS GRIB forecast, we realised that Haliguen on the Quiberon Peninsula would be spared the extreme heat and a better sail.
The wind was variable but mostly favourable although a beat. We were able to sail right up to Port Haliguen and get there just in time to get an alongside berth – after quoting PRAM (Person with Restricted Mobility). It was on a hammerhead a long walk out but we might get a better berth tomorrow.
This is not our favourite marina. One friend calls it Port Hooligan. A saving grace is the nearby Crêperie du Vieux Port. There is also bread available in season and good ice cream! There are plenty of showers. We do still find a touch of the hooligan element in some users but it is functional and the boat men/women go out of their way to be helpful.
Back to Loctudy. 17th August, 55 miles
We had been thinking about going to Locmiqelic but that had been very hot. Ile de Groix was a possibility. However, events were the final determinant. After leaving Port Haliguen and rounding the Teognouse LH, the boom vamg parted company with the bottom of the mast. John did a great job of removing the vang and rigging a temporary, all rope replacement. After passing the Quiberon peninsula we had, first, a fast reach, then a spianaker run until, finally, boat speed was just too low for a sensible arrival time at Loctudy.
As usual, the marina answered our call despite other yachts calling the several othe marinas nearby. We had seen Gemini go the other side (E) of Ile de Groix and assumed that they had stayed there. To our surprise, they beat us to Loctudy so have some pleasant, always stimulating times to look forward to.
Although not without risks, we have decided to stay with the jury rig. It will mean raking great care to avoid crash jibing in strong winds – not our habit these days, if ever.
At Loctudy
This is always a well organised friendly marina. Gemini with Ross, Wei Wei, Ishbel and Verity made it even better. After a meal on Gemini, Verity treated us to her prank practice and some impromptu selections varying from Bah to Scott Joplin. As a 13 year old, she is most talented. After an organ recital at the local church, she was able to try her hand on the organ!
To Audierne, yet again.38 miles, 21st August
This was a near perfect passage. Passing all the cardinal buoys until the Point de Penmarc’h was routine in a slowly increasing N’ly. After the Pointe , Men Hir light house it was hard on the wind which slowly increased to a good F5 and a reef. One tack was enough as the wind shifted. About 3 miles out, the wind suddenly dropped, probably a shelter effect of the land.
I had emailed the marina to request a berth, always sensible for this port with its restricted berthing. It worked well and we had an alongside berth on a hammer head.
At Audierne
After so many visits, it was almost like coming home. From the time of Guy Tapin in the 1990s, yje harbourmasters have all been most friendly and helpful. We met Ambre again, the assistant harbourmaster. A livewire who is a bundle of fun.
We met Alain and Christine again for a drink which became a visit to their house near Audierne. A lovely house, nominally their second house but where they seem to pass much of their time.
To Camaret, 24th August, 28 miles
A slow sail with much motoring. We have rarely seen so few boats here at this time of year although more arrived later. The Sanitaires are as poor as they were 26 years ago. Surely, with the number of boats passing through each year, they should be able to afford the cost. Vauban was a great architect but there are limits to what is still useable!
To L’Aber Wrac’h, 25th August, 35 miles
Another slow sail with a fair amount of motoring until near Le Four LH. After that, from the Poupian W Cardinal it was good and fairly fast. We got an along-side berth on the fishing bpat quay.
Back to Roscoff, 27th August, 36 miles
Post hurricane Erin, sea state was a major issue with 5 metre swell predicted, albeit with a long wavelength. The Malouine passage our preferred departure poin going east was untenable. The safe passage out via the Libenter WCM was rough but safe enough. We skierted some of the more uneven bottom areas. After that there were no more problems, with not too much wind, waves were small and the swell long and gentle.
On the AIS, I could see some boats going north of Ile de Batz and wondered why. We have done this passage many times and did not expect any problems. Approaching the Grande Plate WCM there were clearly no problems and we arrived at Roscoff in a reasonable time. I later learnt that about 4 boats which had bee well ahead of us arrived an gour later.
At Roscoff
We are awaiting a reasonable weather window to get to Lezardrieux. Penni is returning to England with Ross and family as Timmy can only return to the UK in a car or via the Dieppe – Newhaven ferry. We have a constraint imposed by the 90 day rule and must leave France by 9th September. At this stage, weather windows are few and far between. We might have to make some difficult decisions.