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A straightforward, day to dayStrong'''

On this page

A straightforward, day to day account of what we have done during the current year's cruise. What we found may help others. I hope that anyone interested in the area will cherry pick rather than trying to read from start to finish.

Our boat is a Hallberg Rassy 34, Anhinga. This year it is crewed by Frank and Jennifer Singleton, Home port is Darthaven, Kingswear opposite Dartmouth

Plans for 2021

Covid is making it difficult to have any plans as the situation is constantly changing. Our elder son’s 60th birthday is June 2nd, so first priority is to get to Mylor by then. May has been a terrible month for weather, wet and cold. We did, or got done, a number of jobs on the boat including having a new flexible solar panel, a new battery and monitor. By late May, winds had settled down to a reasonably strong easterly, so off to Mylor.

Ports visited

River Yealm
River Fowey
Mylor Yacht Harbour
Cawsand Bay
Salcombe
St Peter Port
St Helier
St Brieuc
Lézardrieux
Roscoff
L’Aber Wrac’h7
Ste Evette and Audierne
Loctudy
Port la Foret
Back to Ste Evette and Audierne
Camaret
Back to L’Aber Wrac’h7
Back to Roscoff
BPerros Guirec
Back to Lézardrieux
Roscoff
Back to Mylor Yacht Harbour
Back to River Fowey
And the River Yealm
Salcombe
Home



To the River Yealm, 29 May. 25 miles

Slipped 1045 to refuel. Out of the river we had problems hoisting the mainsail as the main halliard had got the wrong side of the lazy jacks. Teething problems. Then had a good very broad reach, arriving an hour or so before LW. Many boats but found a buoy with two pick-up lines, one already in use.

To the River Fowey. 30 May. 20 miles.

Another downwind sail. The swell was a little more and the wind dead aft, or nearly so. After a while, for comfort, we dropped the main and ran under headsail alone, still doing well over 5 kts. We knew that there was a big race coming in and were wondering where to go. The harbourmaster advised to go the and furthest pontoons up river. There we found a space and had a quiet night.

To Mylor Yacht Harbour, 30 May. 23 miles.

The wind direction was a little kinder giving more of a reach. We made good progress. Although we had booked well in advance, the harbour gave us a berth on the outside of their pontoon E. With a strong E wind, this was uncomfortable as we would be staying on board as Ralph had invited all the family in the UK. However, after a couple of nights, a space become available inside pontoon E, so we moved.

We will stay here for about a week and then see what is happening Covid-wise. The Isles of Scilly are one option although it will be crowded; better in June than July, no doubt. The Channel Isles is opening up and we may yet get to our first choice, France.

At Mylor

This was a family get together with 4 generations. At time there seemed to be a game of pass the baby. Luckily, Frederick, just over 3 months is a placid child.

To Cawsand Bay, 9 June. 37 miles.

A day with poor visibility and a little slight rain but a good sailing. There were far fewer boats moored in Cawsand bay. It was our first use of the new Rocna anchor.

To Salcombe. 10 June. 21 miles.

An even foggier day but with enough wind to sail much of the way. Arriving off Bolt Head we had to use the radar to enter the harbour safely. Just staying for one night, we were helped onto a buoy so did not have to use our new mooring gadget – my birthday present from elder son Ralph. However, it made getting a second mooring line on the buoy easier. When another boat, Fleur, rafted alongside, we were able to demonstrate how it worked. Their little dog. Harry, was desperate to get on Anhinga. A friendly dog, as ere his owners. Jayne joined us for the crossing to St Peter Port.

To St Peter Port, 11 June. 68 miles.

From Salcombe, it is a little easier to go south about Guernsey. Times of tides were such that going that way would give us a passage entirely in daylight. The forecast promised a good fast sail.

We were not disappointed, apart from a short period early when we mad an abortive attempt to use the spinnaker. Otherwise, it was a fast sail in a slight sea, often going well over 7 knots. Rounding Les Hanois, the wind dropped so we had to motor the final 10 miles. We were met by the harbour launch and escorted to the waiting pontoons with strict instructions to stay on board and report to the Covid test tent at 0900 tomorrow.

At St Peter Port

We tried to fill in the Guernsey online form but had some problems. However, staff were very helpful and corrected our errors – mainly due to sloppy programming. Our tests were done and we now have to sit and wait. It could be as long as 48 hours but, hopefully much less. Meanwhile, we have to isolate on the boat. It is difficult for Jayne who wishes to fly out on Sunday. Such is life under Covid!

Hoping to go to Jersey, we have been filling in forms. All rather confusing, partly my finger trouble, partly the complexity of the forms. After several attempts, we have managed to book into St Helier for Thursday. We will have to go out of the mania onto the waiting pontoon. The pontoons connected to the shore are only for quarantine. St Helier Marina also required advance notice of boat details. In addition, they have a minimum 3 days charge.

We met and had drinks with CA members John and Chris on Aman Cara, a self-designed 12 m yacht and Stuart and Jane on Ishka, an elderly Moody 36. After being on Anhinga, one was heard to say, “Lovely boat but I could not live on it.” Rather put us in our place. Both boats are from Alderney, several mor boats arrived also from Alderney.

To St Helier, 17 June. 24 miles.

As a sail, it was and fast with a F4 touching 5 almost dead astern. With boomed out genoa, we went like a train to La Corbiere light house. A slight increase in wind along the south coast suggested a reef for comfort. The downside was the rain which became heavy approaching St Helier and up the approach channel. Jersey coastguard called first to check our intentions, then to tell us where to go in the marina. (Pontoon G. right at the far end.

Quite different from Guernsey, we were directed to the Covid checking station, near the ferry terminal. We could have gone anywhere. So lax, after Guernsey so strict. I asked the office should we check in. A rather officious lady asked how long we would be staying. I do not know. In which case, we cannot book you in! I said that we might go to France. “Well, you will not be allowed back here,” was the curt reply. With that attitude, we will not come back, even if we wanted to return - we do not. By contrast, the marina manager is helpfulness itself.

At St Helier

All rather frustrating. Marina WiFi is rather tedious with uncertain connection. Trying to get to France, we had to decide between St Malo and St Brieuc. We chose the latter as a new port for us. We sent customs forms provided by the very helpful CA local representative. We then telephoned the harbourmaster only to be told that there was no space. Luckily, the local rep had contacts and got us a berth on the shipyard quay. We then had to get a Covid test - £145 each. Someone is making a bomb out of Covid.

The good news is that we are about to meet up with our old friends, Roger and Carole Thébault. Roger was Chief Met Officer here in the past and Carole comes from Sale, our old home town in our schooldays- and earlier.

We met them first on Anhinga and then at their “new” house in Gorey. A delightfully quiet small group of small houses. Ideal for retirement.

To St Brieuc, 23 June. 42 miles.

This was a good passage, largely under poled out genoa. No problems on passage. It was a close call whether to go west (up tide) or east of the Grand Lejon lighthouse. We chose the former as easier navigationally but, with a stronger tide, east would have been safer.

We arrived at the St Brieuc safe water mark at the optimum time, 90 minutes before high water. Right up sun it was difficult to see the buoyed channel but plain sailing thereafter. The lockkeeper replied immediately on Ch12, saying the lock would be ready in 10 minutes. In the event, we need not have worried about a berth. We were directed/escorted up stream to the Port de Plaisance – not really a marina where there is a veritable armada of mainly quite small yachts, mainly, and motorboats. Facilities are somewhat basic but adequate.

In the village there are two boulangeries, a small general grocery – good fresh produce, several bars and restaurant, post office and a yet to be found fromagerie. The bread, croissants and pain au raisin were some of the bests. The Pain au cereal was good enough to eat like cake.

It is pleasantly low key. Everyone is most helpful

At St Brieuc

We called in at the Bureau de Port in the morning and paid our dues. They had the copy of the customs form that I had sent to them on the advice of the CA local representative. We asked about passports being stamped but were told there was no need as the Douane had all our details. They might visit if they thought there was a need. Nobody wanted proof of our vaccination history nor evidence of PCR test prior to arrival. All very laid back. It was almost as if neither Brexit nor Covid had happened – except that if you put a toe over a shop threshold, you get a quick reminder, “Masque, Monsieur”.

There is a frequent, regular bus past the port, presumably up the hill to the main town. Jennifer had to replace a leaky Musto jacket at the Accastillage. They had her size.

To Lezardrieux, 26 June. 26 miles.

With light winds this was only going to be a motoring job. It was a big tide and, at times we had nearly 3 knots helping us along. A Dutch yacht, Eddie that we met at St Brieuc followed us.

Since our last time here, the marina office is now a tourist centre in a good-looking building. I think that they are settling in because they told me that the showers were open all the time with no code. However, hoping to use them in the evening, it was only by card entry. A mystery to be solved. We had a good meal of galette and crepes at the idiosyncratically names, Les Ar d'Reo.

To Roscoff, 29 June. 38 miles.

A Hobson’s choice day. The following day would be very light winds with a threat of rain and poor visibility against a day with a promise of wind but also with poor visibility. In fact, going through the Moisie Passage, visibility was poor. The tide had just turned and the sea was very rough and unpleasant. However, after the Jument des Heaux NCM, we had a wind that increased nicely and a strong tidal stream. We made good time.

Arriving at Roscoff, we got an email from Ross asking us to help with his headsail. We had not realised that he was already there. We also met the crew of a Dutch boat, Panache. Hans and Carool took our lines and said they had some good photos of Anhinga.

At Roscoff

Next morning, wet Ross, who had in fact only got here on the ferry after us! He had seen us on Marine Traffic before leaving Plymouth. We went to the Douane to get our passports, belatedly, stamped. We are now legal! Covid jabs and tests were checked.

We had hoped to move on to L’Aber Wrac’h on Friday, July 2 July but just as we were about to go, a thick blanket of fog descending causing a rapid change of mind. The Chenal de Batz is tortuous and, more importantly, what would it be like at the other end? Having an aversion to going when we know there is fog, we stayed. The problem now is that there is no obvious window. We knew that we would have to wait somewhere but would have preferred L’Aber Wrac’h.

For several days, forecasts had been for severe gales overnight 5/6th. They duly came and were very strong – up to F9. We had a disturbed night. Later, we heard that boats had been blown over in the boat park at Port la Foret. However, forecasts, after being up and down, are no predicting light winds on Friday 9th. Directions are not ideal but we should get some help with the sails on the 16-mile leg after the Chenal de Batz. We shall see. It is not an ideal window but as good as any for the next week or more. Anyway, we have just about exhausted Roscoff.

A bright spark was to find that a mini-Carrefours had opened in the town on the 7th; we were some of the very first customers. This was sorely needed as the Casino is not good. The super U at St Pol de Leon is good but a €2.50 per head there and back. A second plus is the opening of a Brasserie at the marina. Food is excellent and good value for money. This is good competition to the pre-existing restaurant.

To L’Aber Wrac’h, 9 July. 27 miles.

We were expecting to have to motor sail for much of the way with light winds. In fact, we sailed about half the time. After we arrived, many boats arrived from the south. We asked for, and got, a finger berth (catway in French) instead of having to go on the main visitors alongside pontoon with its long walk to the showers.

At L’Aber Wrac’h

As usual, we had a meal at the excellent Captain Creperie. We walked up to the old Semaphore station with its great view over the entrance and to La Vierge lighthouse. We have never noticed the selection of unusual hydrangea species before.

To Ste Evette and Audierne. 13 and 14 July. 53 miles.

The north-westerly winds continued so it was a case of choosing the best bet for a good sail through the Chenal du Four, across the Iroise and the infamous Raz de Sein. Leaving L’Aber Wrac’h and getting to the north end of the Chenal du Four is often difficult with wind against tide and a most uneven sea bed. This was no exception. From the Libenter WCM it could have been a good sail. In the event, it was just too tight on the nose and the wind strong enough against a 3 kt tide to make it one of our worst experiences of this leg.

Once we had turned south, past Le Four lighthouse, it was a gentle broad reach getting us to being abeam Pye St Mattieu about one hour after low water. Across the Iroise to the Raz is a matter of careful timing. Usually, as was the case on this occasion, we had to slow the boat down to arrive at the Raz at LW, one hour before Brest LW. We furled the genos, took a reef in the mainsail and then had to depower by hauling the main right in as the wind went even more astern. For once, we got is just right. It was one of our easiest rounding of the two world famous towers, L Vielle and La Platte. It was difficult to reconcile with the famous photos of both in a storm.

The final leg along the coast was fast with the ebb tide. It was a little too late to go upriver, so we used a visitor’s buoy in the Ste Evette Bay. A most helpful young man took our line to a buoy, charged €15 and took an order for croissant in the morning.

These duly arrived and were good. A call to the marina secured us a place. The lady harbourmaster met us to take lines and help us in. The berth was one of the easiest in what is often a difficult approach with strong tides.

Wednesday is mid-week market day, right by the pontoons. All other shops are close. As ever, the flowers around the marina were glorious with some quite highly scented. Audierne lived up to its reputation of being one of our favourite ports.

At Audierne

Here we had two consecutive sunny days, a first since St Peter Port. As ever the flowers around the marina were excellent, well-kept an nicely scented. All the nearby shops are good, some of the best we know. Audierne remains our favourite port. Certainly, the most convenient for provisioning. everything s within 100 metres or so from the top of the passerelle on pontoon C, 200 metres from pontoon G. A slight oddity is that the local “pain au raisin” is larger than usual. Not a patch on those at St Brieoc.

To Loctudy. 16 July. 30 miles.

A disappointing wind which started nicely, broad reaching to Pointe de Penmar’c nut which petered out to give a motoring job. As ever, the boatman was helpful. Even by late evening there were spaces in this usually full marina. A combination of Brexit and Covid.

Somewhat worryingly, the Raymarine autohelm ceased to work. The next leg will be to Port la Foret, a short passage but probably, with E or light winds, another motot sail.

To Port la Foret. 18 July. 30 miles.

As we expected, this was a motoring passage in a light easterly. We refuelled on arrival and we’re gratified to have used only 60 litres since leaving Dartmouth - 40 hours. It has become exceedingly hot - after an abnormally cold spell. We have usually said that it gets warmer, once south of Brest but this is an extreme example.

We met up with Sue and Michael on Jinn. Great to see them again after all their health problems. Like us, they feel comfortable, safe and relaxed when aboard — even in harbour.

At Port la Foret

First priority was to find a Raymarine specialist as our self steering has ceased to work. Artaud, Concarneau came quickly. We knew that he is good - having fitted Jinn’s auto-helm two years ago. Apparently, the motor is not working. Probably it will mean a new one, 2 or 3 days but we are not in any hurry especially in this heat. Second priority was a social evening on Anhinga with Sue and Michael. The hot weather continues.A longish walk for bread and other necessities is our exercise for the day. By Wednesday evening, as promised, the problem was fixed - €510 - and we now have a working autohelm. Rather essential for passages more than a few hours. Discussion with Raymarine and a Google search show that we were lust unlucky.

We had drinks on Anhinga and Jinn where we met Peter and Ledwine, an interesting Dutch couple who have a sister ship to Jinn. Over the next day or so, we met up with Michael and Sue so that more wine, gin and beer were consumed.

As throughout this trip the weather is still being difficult. We would like to have gone to another favourite, Locmiquelic, but it looks very uncertain when we would be able to start going northwards again. We said good bye to Jinn knowing full well that future meeting will depend critically on our age and their health. Fingers crossed for both!



Back to Ste Evette and Audierne, 26/27 July. 32 miles.

This was a nearly sail until Pointe de Pemarc’h. Nearly sailable until we turned the corner past Men Hir lighthouse after which we had a fast reach across the bay to Audierne. Being late afternoon and knowing the marina upriver would be busy, we picked up a buoy in Ste Evette telephoned the marina to book a berth for the next morning.

Picking up a buoy was simple using our new device – a present from our elder son. The buoys here have large rings but we find them quite heavy to lift, especially with a strong wind blowing. Pulling the bouy near enough was not easy – for us. A French boat came in and a large man just hoisted the buoy clear of the water. On another, a crew member just leant over the side, grasped the buoy with one hand and fed his line through with the other. What it is to ve young and strong!

At Audierne

The following morning, we motored up to the marina for a berth on the hammerhead of Pontoon D. It felt like home! That is as well because we could be here for 10 days. As has been the case this year, it is difficult to see a weather window coming. Forecasts for the next 8-10 days have varied from one run to the next and between models. Accordingly, confidence is low. Of course, Audierne is ideal for an extended stopover. Good patisserie/boulangerie, boucherie/traiteur, small daily covered market, twice weekly produce market and a small Casino for heavy items are all clustered around the marina. Plenty of eateries but little need to use them, except as a change from the excellent quiches and other items too tasty to miss.

Two pluses for Audierne are the flowers and the market. The flowers around the marina are some of the best we have seen. Occasional boxes are strongly scented. The Saturday produce market is also one of the best. Good standard and competing stalls for most items. It is no hardship to be weather-bound here, rather the reverse. Another plus is the price. Seven nights cost €115 as opposed to €188 at Port la Foret.

Watching the forecasts, Tuesday, tomorrow, looks a good bet for Camaret. Forecasts have been inconsistent, it is only over the past couple of days that they have shown some consistency from day to day and mutually.

Many boats came in witjh much double stacking. Luckily, we were “a couple” with a Benereau First 31, with two pleasant and considerate young Frenchman and the largest fenders that we have ever seen on a small boat. Larger than ours! Also, thet were leaving before us the following morning.

To Camaret. 3 August. 25 miles.

After saying au revoir to the lady assistant harbourmaster we were on our way. As expected, it was a light wind motoring job, wind assisted to the Raz de Sein. Many others had the same idea that, with an abnormally low tidal coefficient of 33, it was a good time to take the Raz early with the north going tide rather than at slack water, It was the flattest se that we have ever seen there and boars were coming through in both directions.

After the Raz, the change of course and a slight stronger wind gave a pleasant dead run under mainsail boomed out gena. The Camaret harbourmaster showed us to a berth. Camaret has changed little over the years with its totally inadequate toilet block in a Vauban dungeon cell. Our berth was at the far end of a Eloy alongside the walkway to the shore.

At about 2245, there was a hard bang on the side of the boat. A training school boat had come down the slot looking for a space and had had trouble in turning. Luckily the turned the boat enough to hit us and a boat ahead of us beam on. Luckily, there was no damage - apart from the pride of the training skipper. Why they had come so far down and not tried to go alongside a boat on the sides of the slot is a mystery. They were quite a large boat with the potential to cause serious damage.

At Camaret

We are going to be here for a few days with either adverse wind or good directions but over strong. A plus is that the U supermarket not only stocks our preferred rum but also one of our favourite Corsican wines,, Terra Nostra. Although a longish walk for shopping, Camaret is a pleasant town with good walks - for the young and fit!

In the morning as some boats left, we move to get Anhinga alongside the arms of the slot. The following day, with strong winds occurring and expected, not many boats moved and more came in. Eventually, we had to have another boat a couple. It was a day thst started with rain, went showery and dry enough to do the shopping.

By Thursday, it was clear that the next three days would be possible but rather strong and with the wind to Pte de St Mathieu tight on the nose. Monday looked good, a goof SW F4 and sailable across the Goulet de Brest. Successive forecasts were in line.

Back to L’Aber Wrac’h , 9 August. 24 miles.

It was a ggod decision. We had a dry sail with no showers, the previous 3 days would have been very different. We had a good fast sail from Camaret to the Vieux Moines beacon off Pte deSt Mathieu. Often this has been a motor sailing leg. From there to the top end of the Chenal du Four it was a light wind broad rech becoming a near dead run. The final legs to the Libenter West Cardinal buoy and on to the Petit Pot de Beurre wre fast reaches with the tifal stream doing up to 9 kts over the ground.

The marina was busy so we had to use the normal visitor’s berths after being net by the helpful boat man.

At L’Aber Wrac’h

As ever it was good to be here. For different reasons we always enjoy L’Aber Wrac’h as much as we do Audierne. The Captain creperie is always busy and always good and good value. We went to market in Lanyllis, a good market. It is always fascinating to see how people approach shopping in France.

We have to move on as tidesare getting later by the day and we want to get to Roscoff in daylight. After Friday, that would be next Tuesday and winds might be too strong by then. With great reluctance, go we must.

Back to Roscoff, 12 August. 24 miles.

The GFS GRIB said SW, Météo France daid SW-W veering NW by midday. In the event it was W, top end of F4, throughout giving a long near dead run always on the brink of a gybe. We did several gybes. The tidal coefficient was 88, so we had a strong stream after the tide turned showing up to 8 kts over the ground with less than 5 through the water.

The helpful boatman was still on duty at Roscoff which was all to the good as there wre few spaces available. We got a berth on pontoon H – normally we are on B. It felt a little like outer Mongolia.

At Roscoff

We considered, , and did ask for, a move but decided otherwise. It is an easy berth to leave, well out of the strong flow which affects berths nearer the entrance and further out.

A fairly short provisioning shop was the first priority, made easier by the seasonal free shuttle bus. Getting back to the marina, a most pleasant surprise was to meet an old friend, Dave Mcleman. This was the first Brit that we had met since leaving Port la Foret.

To Perros Guirec, 19 August. 20 miles

Time has come to move on or stay at Roscoff for a wind to cross the Channel. However, at our advanced ages, we prefer to avoid passages over 12 hours. This causes a few problems as we have to leave from a port of entry, Roscoff, St Brieuc (where we entered) or St Malo. We have only been to Perros Guirec once before and knew that it is a delightful place. Winds seemed good for a couple of days before moving on to Lezardrieux, our usual stop before St Peter Port. This time it will on to St Brieuc.

The sail to Perros Guirec was gentle and uneventful. We were a little early for lock opening time so had to do a little wandering around. Once through the narrow entrance, there were plenty of visitors’ spaces. The lady at the Capitainerie had excellent English.

At Perros Guirec.

The town is up a long hill but pleasant enough. The excellent creperies was books for the Friday evening, so we booked for Saturday. The shop that claims to sell Breton goods seemed not as good as three years ago but it often seems that places are never quite so good second tome round.

With a spell of easterly winds coming, it is time to move on. A pity because another British Yacht has just arrived from Roscoff. It would heve been nice to have had a chat rather than a brief hello. As the winds could stay east for over a week we wondered if they knew that.

Back to Lezardrieux, 22 August.

We came out of the lock and picked up a mooring to await the tide turning easterly. With a coefficient of 91, it will be quite strong.

As expected, we had a fast passage with a gentle broad reach. As we were arriving at about half rid, we btpassed our preferred Moisie passage for the more convenyional entrance. As previously, this was not easy as, although not rough water, there are some odd eddies. Again, as as happenerd on a number of occasions with a NW wind, strengths increased upriver. For better visibility and still having a helping ride, we furled the genoa.

For the first time, we were met by a boatman and shepherded to a slot..

At Lezardrieux

We had come here with the intention of going on to Guernsey. This would mean having to check out with customs at St Brieuc. That would be difficult from Lezardrieux but possible from either St Quai Portrieux or St Brieuc itself.

However, the NE winds, which had looked as though they might weaken, are now expected to persist for at least 10 days – ECMWF and GFS agree. So, Plan B had to come into operation. We will return to Roscoff, perhaps Wednesday or Thursday with the intent of crossing from there to Mylor, Falmouth. This is a longer crossing than we like these fays but has the merit of being far enough away from the Casquets TSS for ships to be well spaced and easier to dodge than from St Peter Port to the Dart.

The combination of the wretched Covid, the even more wretched Brexit and weather make sailing decisions problematical at times.

Back to Roscoff, again, 26 August. 45 miles.

A disappointing sail. Despite a F3-4 NE wind and a strong current, coefficient about 90, we were a little late arriving and had to contend with a strong tide through the marina. The boatmen are good at nudging boats into bereths in sych conditions.

At Roscoff

Jayne was arriving Friday evening so all we had to do was provision, arrange pre-departure Covid tests and arrange a time to custom out including the all-important passport stamping. We had expected no problem with testing but had a nasty shock when the first available fate was 4 days after our planned departure. Luckily, we had UK Antigen test kits on board plus Jayne to help us first timers.

Back to Mylor. 97 miles. 28/29 August.

The wind was more or less accurate with NE winds, a little stronger than forecast at F5 for much of the way instead of F3-5. We put a reef in when just off Ile de Batz but, in doing so lost a line through the boom. With a little difficulty, Jayne and I fixed a jury rig.

The east bound shipping lane was busy but we had no problem in holding a steady course, helped by our speed, a good 7 knots or so. In the western lane, we had a close encounter but after I called him up, the captain alteref course for us.

We arrived off St Anthony’s Head just at dawn and dropped the anchor off St Just. Mylor Yacht Harbour had us on their waiting list and kindly offered us a berth – which we gratefully accepted.

At Mylor

We had the luxuries of beds and baths at our sons’ house overlooking the marina. Jaynes’ family came so we had a great time.

Back to the River Fowey, 5 September., 25 mile

For the first 15 miles until south of Dodman this was a miserable “sail” with insufficient wind, too much on the nose into a bumby sea. After Dorman, it was a fast reach. We went upriver ro a visitor’s pontoon berth.

And the Yealm, 6 September. 23 miles

This was a motor all the way with barely any wind, in a flat sea. Abeam Plymouth, as predicted by the Inshore Waters forecast, the wind increased a little. The helpful Yealm harbourmaster helped us to a buoy. On the forecast, we will probably stay here for 2 nights as the wind looks like being fairly strong, easterly.

Back to Salcombe, 8 September. 17 miles

A horrendous sail with a massive thunderstorm. Our Lightngmaster gave some comfort. We arrived at Salcombe at the time of strongest tide, coefficient around 100. Picking up the buoy was not easy. Eventually we lassoed it. Salcombe was very touristy with the smells of cheap food. The bright spot was an excellent bread shop. They even sliced the bread – just like in France.

Back to our home berth, 9 September, 15 miles.

A disappointing last sail in a wind just not quite strong enough. Still, good to be back after a rather strange cruise. The combination of Covid and Brexit created problems. All were surmountable but not easily. But, that is what sailing is so often about. That is one reason why we do it!

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